Winterizing Your Landscape
Winter weather can take a harsh toll on the plants in your landscaping. In our area
winter is especially hard to deal with because our temperatures fluctuate instead of
staying cold. Here are some tips that can help.....
WATER, WATER, WATER!
You will improve a plant's ability to survive dry winter weather if you make sure that
the plant has sufficient waterings until the soil freezes. This is important to all
plants, but especially so to broadleaf evergreens such as azaleas and rhododendrons, and
newly planted trees and shrubs of any kind. 'Newly planted' applies to any plantings you
installed this season, from spring on through fall. Check your plants for dryness and
watch the weather. If rainfall is insufficient you'll need to supplement. When you water,
water deeply. Use a sprinkler for large areas. To be sure you are watering correctly use a
straight sided container, such as a coffee can, in the area where you are running your
sprinkler. When there is an inch of water in the can move the sprinkler. Water new plants
individually by laying a hose that is running at a slow trickle at the base of the plant.
Allow the hose to run for 15 to 30 minutes for shrubs and 60 to 90 minutes for trees.
Tips for Individual Plants
Roses: Begin to leave seed pods, known as hips, on rose plants towards the end
of the growing season in early fall. This will signal the plant to begin to shut down for
winter. It is very important to remove fallen leaves, as they can harbor disease spores
which can overwinter. It is not necessary to prune roses in the fall unless there are long
canes which will whip around in winter winds This can damage the root systems. Save major
pruning until spring.
In late November treat roses with a lime sulfur dormant spray or dust the plant and
surrounding soil with dusting sulfur. Apply a 6" to 8" layer of mulch or soil
around the base of the plants after the ground has frozen to keep it frozen. The easiest
and neatest way to do this is with rose collars.
Perennials: Remove any leaves which accumulate on perennial beds, as these can
smother your plants. Remove any foliage or stems which were infested by insects or disease
at the end of the season. Mulch the plants after the soil has frozen. This can be any time
from mid December through early January. You can use wood chips, soil, straw, or evergreen
boughs as your mulch. If perennials beds are located under the eaves of your home, make
sure that they are kept clear to keep overflowing water from drowning your plants.
Trees & Shrubs: First read 'WATER, WATER, WATER' if you haven't already! O.K.,
now you can go on. Established shade and ornamental trees can be fertilized from October
through December. Newly planted trees that are located in windy sites can be staked to
avoid root damage. Pull mulch at least 12" away from the trunks of trees and shrubs
to discourage rodent damage. If rabbits and deer present a problem, wrap loose cages of
chicken wire around trunks.
Evergreens & Broadleafed Evergreens: Read the WATER, WATER, WATER section if
you haven't already! In addition to watering, an anti-desiccant or anti-transpirant spray
such as Cloud Cover(tm) or Wilt Pruf(tm) may be used to seal in moisture. These sprays
should be applied in late November or early December on a day when temperatures will be
40¡ or above until nightfall. The spray must dry before it freezes. Shrubs that flower
early in the spring form their buds from mid-summer through fall. Do not prune them in
fall, you will lose your flowers.
Ground Covers: It is very important to remove fallen leaves from ground cover beds.
Leaves that are not removed will smother your plants and they often harbor disease spores
that will cause problems the following year.
Lawns: Start mowing at lower heights when cool weather begins to set in. The last
mowing of the season should be to 2". Fall is the best time to fertilize your lawn.
Our tip sheet 'Established Lawn Care' lists recommendations for fertilizer types and
timing. Yes, fall is the time to rake up leaves...all of them! Any that are left will
smother your existing grass, which will result in bare spots next spring. This would be a
great time to start composting. If you're not sure how, ask us. We can help.
Beat the spring rush....before you put your mower away, take it to your dealer for
servicing and blade sharpening.
Vegetable Gardens: Start by cleaning up. The job is easier if you remove plants as
they succumb to the weather. Add any that were in good health to that compost pile you
just started! This is also a good time to till the garden. Leave soil clumps to freeze and
thaw over the winter. You may sow a cover crop at this time.
Have some fun!
Fall is the time to start forcing bulbs for holiday and winter blooming.
It's really fun and it's not difficult. We can show you how.
Mid October is the time to begin feeding wild birds. Remember that birds need food, water,
and shelter.
Start planning for next year. This is a good time to do some thinking. Make notes on what
you liked and didn't like about your plantings this year. Read gardening books and
magazines to get new ideas for next year. Take a class. Stop into any of our garden stores
and talk to our experts. You'll be ready for spring when it's ready for you. |