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In This Issue
Weather It's The
Weather
What's Bugging
You
Questionmark and
Mysterian
Success Tip of
the Week
From the Garden
to the Kitchen
Plant to Ponder
Contact
Information
Up
Coming Events
Granny's Garden School
is looking for volunteers to
be on their advisory board. Can you help?
Order your Honeybaked Easter Ham and help Granny's Garden!
For more info on both visit
grannysgardenschool.com
14th Annual SW Ohio Perennial Flower School
Thursday April 3
8:30am - 4pm
Clermont Co. Fairgrounds
(513) 732-7070
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Rita's Recipes
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Whether It's The Weather
As we
recover from the weekend's blizzard like weather conditions,
it looks like our rainfall and snowfall has really done a
lot in recharging all the lakes and ponds, water tables, and
flushing out the creeks and rivers. Soil moisture is maxed
right now, which is one of the reasons we're seeing leaning
trees and evergreens. Limited root systems, shallow root
systems, and excessive soil moisture combined with some
strong winds, and the next thing you know, those trees have
toppled over. When this happens, please take the
opportunity to look at the root system that exists, or in
most cases, doesn't exist. Look at how shallow the root
systems are, and how there are no "tap roots" to be seen.
Look at how the majority of the root systems are within the
top 30-36 inches of the soil, and most being within the top
15-18 inches. Then you get a better understanding, when it
comes to watering and feeding practices, and a plants
vulnerability to drought conditions. I would also like to
point out the many evergreens either showing branches or
areas of dead, or whole evergreens dead. Trust me, this has
only just begun. More will show browning and dyeing as the
season goes along. The drought took it's toll on evergreens
(all of them) as well as the leafy plants, but evergreens in
particular. There will be many to be replaced this year,
and if you're looking for an evergreen
replacement recommendation, especially for the arborvitae, I
will tell you that if the evergreen had done well up until
last summer, then I'd replace it with the same type plant.
And, I'd make sure watering becomes a higher priority during
a drought situation, especially for the evergreens.
By
the way, if you are replacing larger growing evergreens and
would like to try something different, take a look at the
Green Giant or Spring Grove Arborvitae. Quicker growing,
10-15 feet wide at the base, 30 feet plus in height. And it
shows low browse problems with deer. I really like what I'm
seeing with this plant - especially for those with smaller
yards, but wanting a taller evergreen screen without the
plant taking up the entire yard.
One
last comment here. Do not be too anxious to get out and
start digging and tilling in this extremely wet soil. Make
sure the moisture level goes down a bit before you start
walking around on the lawn and beds (regularly) and
especially before you start tilling.
[A man that can't laugh at himself should be given a
mirror. -Irish saying]
What's Bugging You?
No bugs yet, but it won't be long! For those of you with
fruiting trees and shrubs, or trees and shrubs that require
dormant sprays of lime sulfur or dormant oils, now's the
time to get 'er done. Look for 24 hours of above 45 degree
weather, no rain, and have at it. For those of you who are
needing to apply Bonides or Bayers Tree and Shrub Insect
Control (systemic - applied as a soil drench), the ground
cannot be frozen, and yet not too saturated with water.
These are perfect means of control for some of those hard to
control bugs including scale, leaf miners, adelgids, and the
dreaded Emerald Ash Borer. As usual, always read the label,
and follow the directions. As we go into the 2008
gardening season, let's all make a promise, that if we are
experiencing bug or disease problems on our plants, we will
first find out exactly what it is that's causing the
problem, determine how much damage could be incurred,
whether it even needs to be treated for, and if so, what are
the options for trying to control the problem. Sound
good?
[If a man fools me once, shame on him. If he fools me
twice, shame on me. -Irish saying]
Questionmark and the Mysterians -
Your Questions Answered
"Can you tell me, how would I know the difference between a
termite and an ant?" -Good question! Termites have
straight antennae, two pairs of wings about the same size
and shape, broad waist (like mine is!), and short legs.
Ants have elbowed antennae, two pairs of wings with the rear
wings smaller than the front wings, a narrow waist (not at
all like mine!), and longer legs. If you discover termites,
don't try to control them yourself, call in the
professionals.
"Every year my Columbine get leaf miners. What can I do to
get rid of it?" -This is a very common problem with
Columbine and really is more aesthetic than a problem to the
plant. You can try a systemic like Bonide's or Bayer's Tree
and Shrub Insect Control (apply early spring), but many
folks will simply cut off the infested foliage after the
plants are finished flowering, and let them regrow the rest
of the season.
"When should I prune back my roses?" -Although I see many
gardeners out already cutting back roses, my experiences
along with the advice from the rose doctor himself, Dr.
Pottschmidt, have been to wait until late March at the
earliest, best timing being early to mid April. Sure they
may have already started to leaf out by late March, but just
wait. Pruning encourages new growth, and pruning a bit
later, gets you closer to warmer weather and less chance of
freeze damages to that new foliage. Don't forget what
happened last spring!
"Some of my over-wintering container plants are starting to
bud. What should I do?" -Move them outside at this stage
to let them come back to life just as the ones outside are
doing. Garages will be getting too warm as we go along for
plants to stay dormant and will pop out early. If the
weather makes a sudden change to really cold, you'll have to
move them back in.
"Should I be putting down pre emergents yet on the lawn and
landscape beds?" -Anytime from here forward will do. Just
remember that crabgrass seeds (which generally are the
first) will not begin to germinate until the soil and air
temperatures reach consistently 50-55 degrees for 4-5 days
in a row. By the time the forsythia are finished flowering,
you should have your pre-emergent in place. And if you
don't, you can still apply them after that.
"I dormant seeded over the winter, but wanted to apply a pre
emergent herbicide to the lawn. Was told I can't do that.
Now what?" Well, you have a couple options. First, there
are pre emergent herbicides for the lawn which can be used
for newly seeded lawns! Look at both Scott's or Greenviews
Step One for Newly seeded lawns. Pre emergent which allows
grass seed to grow, as well as a starter fertilizer for the
new seed (and light feeding for the turf). Or, you can wait
until the grass seed has germinated, and then apply
Greenviews FairWay Formula Spring Application in late April
thru mid May, which has a pre emergent, post emergent and a
long lasting lawn food. By the way, for those of you
looking for an 'all natural' pre emergent for the lawn, look
at Espoma's with corn gluten (yes, it stops grass seed from
growing).
"What's that golden rule you keep saying about pruning
flowering trees and shrubs?" -The golden rule, for the
most part, is this: If it flowers in the spring, prune it
after it flowers. If it flowers in the summer (after June
1st), prune it in the spring. There are exceptions, but
this is a good rule to follow to make sure you see flowers
from your plants. If the flowers aren't a concern, feel
free to prune in the spring!
"I saw
your ZZ Plants at the Home and Garden Show, and am buying
one for my home. Can you tell me if they're poisonous to
pets?" -From what I can find, they are listed as toxic to
pets and humans, but I can't find to what level they're
toxic. So for now, until I can find more info, let's just
say yes, they are toxic to the pets. For a complete listing
of 'pet toxic plants' and their levels, visit
www.aspca.org
. By the way, ZZ Plant is not on their list! WITH EASTER
COMING UP, REMEMBER THAT LILIES ARE DEATHLY TOXIC TO CATS.
[Let your anger set the sun and not rise with it again.
-Irish saying]
Success Tip of the Week
Growing Shamrocks Indoors
- Yes, it's true. You do not have to be Irish to wear green
on St. Patrick's Day, and you definitely don't need a green
thumb or Leprechaun to grow Shamrocks indoors! "Most"
shamrocks sold in garden stores and florists are a member of
the Oxalis family, of which there are over 300 species.
Some have green leaves, some maroon; some grow from bulbs
some from tubers, and most fold their leaves at night and
open during the day. White clover, black medic, hop clover,
and four leaf clovers have also been portrayed as shamrocks,
but the true Irish shamrock is Trifolium dubium, which is a
yellow flowering clover, is not easy to grow indoors - thus
it's the Oxalis plants, which are fairly easy to grow
indoors, that's sold instead for your potted shamrock.
Growing Shamrocks Indoors:
-All shamrocks need lots of light for growing and flowering
indoors. Be careful of the hot afternoon sun during the
summer. Using artificial lighting? Keep it on for at least
12 hours each day.
-Keep your shamrocks evenly moist. They love moist yet well
drained soils. Let it dry ever so lightly between watering.
-They prefer cooler temperatures, especially during the
flowering times. Try for the low 70's during the day, and
55-65 degrees at night. Warmer temperatures will encourage
dormancy quicker.
-Feed shamrocks every 2-3 weeks during the flowering and
growing times. Once flowering has stopped and growth
slowed, cut back to once a month. Water soluble fertilizers
work best.
-Shamrocks can remain in the same pot for several years. If
repotting is needed, do this at the end of the dormancy
period. Division can occur at this time as well.
-Snip off spent flowers stem and all as well as yellowed
leaves. An occasional gentle shower in the sink will help
clean dust off the leaves.
-Most (not all) shamrocks will go thru a dormancy period(s).
The leaves will yellow, the plant gets a tired look, and
just shuts down. Stop watering, remove dead foliage, and
place pot in a cool dark area. When new leaves begin to
appear, bring it back out and start the growing cycle all
over again.
Shamrock Problems: Spots on leaves - usually water spots.
Shamrocks have very few diseases or pest problems. Plants
wilt - Root system too dry for too long. Soggy wet roots or
being too cold will also cause wilting. Yellow Leaves -
Too much water. Plants getting too tall and thin - Not
enough light, or temps too warm. No Blooms - Plants too
young, not enough light, or just too tired and need a rest
period. (Rest periods may last for a couple months.)
Natorp08
[For each petal on the shamrock this brings a wish your way
- good health, good luck, and happiness for today and every
day. -Irish saying]
Sing along -"I'm looking over a four leaf clover that I
overlooked before - one leaf is sunshine, the second is
rain, third is the roses that grow in the lane. No need
explaining the one remaining is somebody I adore - I'm
looking over a four leaf clover that I overlooked before!"
Nice job.
From the Garden to the Kitchen
"Hey
Rita what's Cooking?"
Rita will be joining us for another season starting within
the next 2 newsletters. Rita and I have taught 2 classes
together this past week, and trust me, she's fired up and
ready to start writing! So, look for Rita's tips within the
next 2 weeks. In the meantime, be sure to visit her web
site, listed below.
-Rita
Nader Heikenfeld, CCP / Macy's Regional Culinary
Professional / Herbalist / Author / Local TV and Radio
Cooking Expert / Adjunct Professor U.C. Clermont College /
Community Press Papers / Part time Witchdoctor / Maker of
strange potions /
www.abouteating.com
[It is easy to be pleasant when life flows by like a song,
but the man worth while is the one who will smile when
everything goes dead wrong. For the test of the heart is
trouble, and it always comes with years, and the smile that
is worth the praises of earth is the smile that shines
throught the tears. -Irish saying]
Yardboy's "Plant to Ponder"
Although we will look at each one of these throughout the
year, here is the list for the 2008 Plants of the Year!
Perennial of the Year - Geranium 'Rozanne'
'Rozanne' has been chosen due to its strong performance
in the garden. This very hardy geranium, which grows best
in full sun to partial shade, shows off its 2 ½ inch
iridescent violet-blue saucer shaped flowers with purple
-violet veins and radiant white centers beginning late
spring and continues to flower thru mid fall. Hardy zones
5-8, 24 x 24 inches, prefers moist well drained soils, may
be used as ground cover or as an attractive specimen plant.
Perfect for patio containers, window boxes, and hanging
baskets. *Chosen by the Perennial Plant Association
Herb of the Year - Calendula officinalis
Calendula (Pot Marigold), grown more as a cold hardy
flowering annual than as an herb, is truly a self sowing
edible ornamental. Selections will grow 12-30 inches, with
large flowers (single and doubles from yellow to orange to
creamy white). Calendula enjoys sun to partial shade,
tolerates most soils as long as they are well drained, and
truly are a cool season performer. Excellent in annual /
perennial plantings, excellent container plant, good
companion plant due to insect repelling properties, perfect
for cutting and flower arrangements. Flower petals are used
fresh or dried to add color and mild flavor to soups, stews,
cheeses, margarine, teas, and even cookies. The leaves may
be used in salads. Medicinally it has been used for
soothing skin (burns, scrapes, irritations), and helping
strained muscles. *Chosen by the International Herb Society
Urban Tree of the Year - Nyssa sylvatica
Commonly known as Black Tupelo, Black Gum, Sour Gum, this
large growing tree (35-50'), hardy in zones 4-9, is
definitely one of the most beautiful native trees around.
Usually somewhat pyramidal when young, with age, some tops
may open up and become more horizontal forming an
irregularly rounded or flat-topped crown - although some may
retain the upright oval shape. Dark green leaves changing
to bright yellow to orange to scarlet to purple in fall.
Small yellow flowers in spring (polygamo-dioecious), bluish
black fruit in fall (not messy), and dark gray to brown
black bark. Prefers moist well drained soils, but tolerant
of drier conditions. This tree is an excellent specimen
tree, possible choice for street trees, and great for
naturalizing. *Chosen by the Society of Municipal
Arborists
AARS Roses of the Year
There are 2 winners this year, one of which is rooted
right here in Cincinnati, Ohio! 1.) 'Mardis Gras',
upright growing Floribunda rose (hedge like), semi-glossy
dark green foliage (good disease resistance), high
production of slightly fragrant yellow orange flowers (20-25
petal count) increasing to pink at the finish (stem length
16-20 inches). Hardy to zone 5, perfect for hedging or
border. 2.) 'Dream Come True', upright bushy
growing Grandiflora, abundant matte green leaves (excellent
disease resistance), stunning sight of flawlessly formed,
mildly fragrant, yellow blossoms (30-40 petal count),
blushed with ruby-red at the tips (stem length -long). This
bushy vigorous rose is perfect in the landscape and a great
choice for cutting bouquets. 'Dream Come True' was
hybridized by Dr. John Pottschmidt of Cincinnati, Ohio - the
third amateur hybridizer to win the AARS Award in 67 years!
*Chosen by the All American Rose Selections
Hosta of the Year - 'Blue Mouse Ears'
Blue Mouse Ears is one of the most popular new 'mini' hostas.
Maturing out at 6 inches tall and 12 inches wide, has
distinctive, thick substance, small round blue-green leaves,
and supports little bouquet of lavender flowers reaching
around 6 to 8 inches tall. A fast grower to a tight,
compact mound - is perfect for shady rock gardens, as a
specimen, and for containers. Rumored to be a bit more slug
resistant. *Chosen by the American Hosta Growers
All - American Selections
1.) Osteospermum 'Asti White' (compact grower up
to 20 inches, outstanding bright white 2 inch daisy flowers
with blue centers that continue all summer long) 2.)
Viola 'Skippy XL Plum Gold' (petite 6-8 inch plants,
flowers with bright gold centers, radiating black lines
surrounded by shades of plum purple) 3.) Eggplant
'Hansel' (compact plant growing reaching 36 inches, with
clusters of dark purple glossy miniature fruits, which can
be harvested at 3 inches or let grow to 10 inches). *www.all-americaselections.org
2008 Year of the Rudbeckia and Eggplant
Both
were selected as they are easy to grow, even from seed,
widely adaptable, genetically diverse and are very
versatile. *Chosen by the National Garden Bureau -
www.ngb.org
Color of the Year PANTONE 18-3943 (Blue Iris)
[He who gossips with you will gossip of you. -Irish saying]
A Little
Bit of This, A Little Bit of That
-As the soil dries and weather warms, begin raking and
cleaning out debris from beds, as well as fluffing the
mulch.
-Cut back ornamental grasses.
-Be sure to rake out and remove the henbit and chickweed
growing in your beds (and bare areas in the lawn) right now,
before they flower and go to seed. Don't use an herbicide,
just rake them out. Oh yeah, you can eat chickweed - very
nutritious!
-Eat those wild onions coming up as well! Don't want to eat
them? Try spot treating them (in the lawns) with Bonide's
Weed Beater Ultra - the broadleaf weed killer that works at
temperatures as low as 45 degrees! (and you can reseed 2
weeks after application)
-As the weather breaks, time to plant pansies, primrose, and
other cold hardy spring bloomers.
-Get your containers cleaned, refilled and ready to go.
Don't forget now's a great time to start planting cold hardy
greens in those containers, as well as potatoes!
-If you're thinking about starting seeds indoors this
winter, good for you! Here are a few tips to help make you
a bit more successful with your seed starting
adventure. First of all, you'll need the right seed
starting supplies:
1.) For your growing medium, use a soil-less potting mix
which is composed of sphagnum peat, perlite, and sometimes a
little vermiculite. This mix is extremely important as it
actually helps to hold moisture for the new seedlings, yet
is airy and allows them to dry properly with less chance of
getting dampening off, or rotting of the seedlings. This
one even has a slow release fertilizer to help feed the
seedlings very slowly and gently as they grow.
2.) Something to grow your seedlings in - small pots, Jiffy
Cubes, and of course these nice trays with cell packs are
wonderful for starting your seeds.
3.) Some type of shop light with regular florescent tubes
will be needed to help supplement the much needed sunlight
to keep your seedlings from stretching. Remember to keep
the lights within inches of the new seedlings.
4.) A misting bottle. This is one of the best ways to water
your new seedlings, especially when they're very young.
Misting the soil is not so invasive and is easier to control
the water flow.
5.) A small inexpensive fan, and trust me, this fan is one
of the key ingredients for starting seeds indoors. Placed
away from the seedlings, it provides constant air movement
around the plants which helps reduce disease, rotting, and
it also helps to promote stockier plants.
And here's the most important thing to remember. Read the
back of the seed packs and see how long it takes for
germination and time for transplanting outdoors. Then count
backwards from our frost free date which is around May 15.
That's when you start your seeds indoors. For tomatoes, it
takes about 6-8 weeks, which means starting time is right
around late March. That's almost 2 months away! And
remember, it's always better to start them a little late,
rather than way too early. Natorp07
[No man ever wore a scarf as warm as his daughter's arm
around his neck. -Irish saying]
[A family of Irish birth will argue and fight, but let a
shout come from without, and see them all unite. -Irish
saying]
Want more? "Tis better to buy a small bouquet and give it
to your friedn this day, than give a bushel of roses white
and red to lay on his coffin after he's dead." "May you
live as long as you want, and never want as long as you
live." "May your home be too small to hold all your
friends." -All Irish sayings!
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