|
In This Issue
Weather It's The
Weather
What's Bugging
You
Questionmark and
Mysterian
Success Tip of
the Week
From the Garden
to the Kitchen
Plant to Ponder
Contact
Information
Up
Coming Events
Natorp's Garden Stores Holiday
Open House!
Dec. 1 and 2
Live music, Decoration Workshops,
holiday
snacks and refreshments, CRAFT FAIR,
kids activities,
and more!
Bring the whole family.
Help Support Granny's Garden!
Order Avon products on line and support the garden program.
Orders placed by December 10 will be delivered by December
17th.
Click here for details.
Order a Honeybaked Ham gift certificate
for any amount that can be used at any Honeybaked Ham store
in the country.
Click here
for details.
East Row Historical Foundation's 14th Annual Victorian
Christmas Tour
Dec. 1-2
Noon to 6pm
Newport, Ky.
www.eastrow.org
Civic Garden Center's Annual Holiday Greens
Get-Together
Dec. 13 Robin Wood
Dec.14 Sue Trusty
Dec. 15 Mike Bourke
civicgardencenter.org
Quick Links
$10,000 Landscape
Makeover
Newsletter
Archive
Success Tip Sheets
Landscape Design Kit
Gift Cards
Rita's Recipes
|
|
Whether It's The Weather
No doubt
about it. We've been blessed with some great rainfall this
week. Soil moisture is definitely at a good level right
now, and looking around, ponds and lakes are looking good
again. Now, if we could only send some of this to the folks
in Georgia!
What's Bugging You?
Christmas is only 27 days away and time is flying by! That
bugs me! TAKE THE WORRY OUT OF CHRISTMAS THIS YEAR - Don't
let Christmas get you upset and frustrated. Since 1916,
Natorp's has been a family holiday tradition with our fresh
(and artificial) wreaths and greens, live and cut Christmas
trees, custom decorations (Yes, decorations made
specifically to your wants and needs!), custom made Holiday
Planters, perfect for the table, on the porch, or wherever
you need Holiday decorations, Cemetery vase arrangements,
and of course, our Natorp grown holiday poinsettias. And,
if you're not sure what to buy your favorite gardener this
year, why not buy a Natorp's Gift Card? Available in any
amount, and can be purchased at the stores or on our web
site
www.natorp.com.
Come see us this holiday season! Better yet, make it this
weekend, as both stores are having their Holiday Open House,
Saturday and Sunday!
[You
know it's 2007 when you accidentally enter your password on
the microwave.]
Questionmark and the Mysterians -
Your Questions Answered
"Can I use grass clippings on my garden beds in a thin
layer?" -I highly recommend adding grass clippings,
especially if they're combined with finely ground leaves, to
the garden, and then tilling them in. Fall is the best time
for adding soil amendments like that, as it has 5 months to
break down. And after tilling, the freezing and thawing
over the winter really helps break up the soil. One note:
do not use grass clippings is the lawn has been treated with
herbicides.
"Is it
too late to put down the last feeding for the lawn?"
-Nope! As a matter of fact, now is the time to put it
down. Go right ahead. Now, if cold weather moves through
and freezes the ground, do not apply fertilizer to the
frozen ground. But otherwise, you're good to go! Lawn
feeders, feed that lawn!
"We have
2 Knockout roses in pots too large to move into the garage
for the winter. What do you suggest we do, or are we too
late to do anything?" -Do the regular pre winter cleanup;
maybe even spray the canes with WiltStop. Then, for those
large pots (can't be moved into the garage), you'll need to
protect them (protecting the roots) from severe cold by
insulating the pots. Circle the pots with chicken wire,
about 6-8 inches or more away from the pot. Then back fill
that area with leaves, straw, mulch, etc. Carry it up past
the top of the pot a bit to mulch across the soil and lower
part of the rose bush itself. I may even take that a step
further and pre-wrap the pots with bubble-wrap, then do the
caging. That double insulates and keeps the pot cleaner.
You will need to water as needed over the winter. Hopefully
your pots will be insulated enough and not expand and
crack! You have plenty of time to do this, so you're not
too late.
[You know its 2007 when every commercial on TV has a website
at the bottom of the screen.]
Success Tip of the Week
Putting
All Roses to Bed for the Winter - As the gardening season
comes to an end, it will be time to tuck away those
climbing, hybrid tea, floribunda and grandiflora roses for
the winter. Why wait so long to do this? 1.) We want the
temperatures to be consistently colder so the roses are
definitely shutting down for the winter. 2.) We prefer the
ground to be close to freezing or less than 40 degrees if
possible. So, it may be late December before the time is
'right' for putting those roses to bed! By the way, if it's
been a dry fall, make sure you water your roses.
Here
are some general steps to follow for putting roses to bed
for the winter:
1.)
It's okay to cut your hybrid tea, floribunda, and
grandiflora roses back a bit if needed (anywhere from 18-36
inches or so in height), only to make them easier to work
with or to prevent long branches from whipping in the winter
winds. We'll do the major pruning next spring, usually
around early to mid April. Climbing roses will not be
pruned at this time, unless some of the canes have become
excessively long and may be damaged in winter winds. You
may also consider tying the canes together to prevent
whipping. Again, any regular pruning needed will be done
next spring.
2.)Rake out all debris and fallen leaves from around the
base of the plant. Spray the rose canes and surrounding
soil surface with a lime sulfur spray. If too cold for a
liquid spray, use a dustible fungicide. As added protection
for the rose canes, especially the climbers, feel free to
spray the canes with an anti-transpirant such as Bonide's
Wilt Stop or WiltPruf to help seal moisture into the canes
during the winter.
3.)Put the roses to bed by mound mulching each plant about
12 inches of so, up from the ground, with the center of the
rose in the center of the mound. Rose collars are very
helpful in making this process a bit easier. Several
mulches can be used, including finely ground leaves,
compost, pine needles, or one of the many bark mulches.
Pinebark (pinefines) is highly recommended. Mounding mulch
helps to protect the rose graft and the lower 8-12 inches of
the rose canes from possible winter damage. If you have a
rose bed containing multiple roses, it may be easier to
consider using a fencing material around the bed, and then
fill the entire fenced in area with your mulch. [We do not
recommend using rose cones.] For added protection, climbing
roses may be mound mulched, sprayed with Wilt Stop, as well
as wrapped with burlap. In some cases, the entire canes can
be laid on the ground and mulched over for the winter.
4.)For landscape or shrub roses, Knockout roses
included, follow the above mentioned clean up around each
rose (no pruning unless there are long whipping
branches), and then treat with the fungicide. With our
'normal' winters, they shouldn't require the mound mulching,
but if you'd like to add the winter 'mound mulching'
protection, they won't complain (especially if your roses
are in a very exposed or harsh winter climate). But, again,
not necessary. A good soil surface mulching will be just
fine, again, after the soil has reached or dropped below 40
degrees. Note: Occasionally, there will times where this is
not possible or feasible, so we simply suggest you wait as
long as you can (to let them shut down) before giving your
roses their final cleanup and winter mulching.
5.)
Over wintering 'Tree Roses" - Hopefully your tree rose is
growing in a container which will make this tip a breeze.
Leave the tree rose outside until it has totally gone
dormant and the temperatures are consistently cold (mid
December or later). Move the potted tree rose into an
unheated garage, water, and water about once each month.
You can also spray with Wilt Stop just before taking it
into the garage. Next March, move it back outside (still
dormant) to begin re-growing as roses normally would. If
the tree rose is growing in the ground, you have 2 options
for winter care. Either way, spray it with Wilt Stop first.
1.) Take a sharp spade (10-12 inches away from the trunk)
and dig about ½ way around the plant, cutting the roots.
Gently pry up on the cut root side and lay the rose on to
its side (parallel with the ground). Cover the entire
plant and root ball with mulch, finely ground leaves /
compost, etc. 2.) Leaving the tree rose upright, circle the
entire plant with a cage of chicken wire. Drive one stake
in the ground to hold the cage upright and in place. Fill
the cage with mulch, finely ground leaves / compost, even
straw will work. You can even take it one step further and
wrap the filled wire column with burlap and secure it with
twine. Be sure to uncover your tree rose in the spring as
you would your regularly mulched roses.
_______________________________________________________
If
you're like me, you still enjoy decorating with live fresh
greens. Great feel and you can't beat those wonderful
smells. But there's nothing worse than having your fresh
greens and wreaths fall apart before the Holiday season is
over, so here's a few tips to help keep them fresher,
longer.
1.)
Make sure they're as fresh as possible when you buy them.
Bend the needles for flexibility, and give them a light
shake. A few needles will fall, but it shouldn't in excess.
2.)
Feel free to soak your greens in a tub of water overnight to
help rehydrate them.
3.)
Take them out of the water, let them dry. Then, give them a
good spraying of an anti transpirant such as WiltStop. This
is an all natural product, made from pine resin, that coats
the needles and seals in the moisture, which will help keep
those greens and wreaths fresher, longer. And once it
dries, it gives your greens a very attractive shiny
appearance. Don't forget that WiltStop can also be used on
your Christmas tree, as well as helping to protect
evergreens outdoors from winter damages.
4.)
Be smart when using your greens, and try to keep them away
from sources of heat, burning candles, or even sunny windows
if you can. And check them on a regular basis. If they get
too dry, just get rid of them; we don't want any fire
hazards around the house.
______________________________________________________
If
you're like me, there's nothing better than a cut live
Christmas tree. The look, the feel, the wonderful scents -
it just says Christmas. So today we'll look at a few ways
to keep your cut Christmas tree as fresh as possible
throughout the Holiday season. Things to consider
when picking the right tree: 1.) Give the
tree a needle check for freshness. Take a needle off the
tree and flex it between your forefinger and thumb. If it's
fresh, it'll bend and spring back. Try gently pulling on a
branch allowing it to slide through your hand. If you have
a handful of needles, that's not the tree for you! And
last, pick up the tree and gently thump the bottom against
the ground. Some needles will fall, but it should only be a
few. 2.) Next, measure the tree to be sure it fits
in your home. If you don't, I guarantee it'll be bigger at
home than it is here at the tree lot! 3.) Bring
your tree stand along just to make sure it fits, but don't
put it in the stand permanently until you're ready to put it
up in the house. 4.) If you're going to put the tree up
when you get home, have the folks at the tree lot put a
fresh flat cut on the bottom, removing about 1 inch. Then
sleeve the tree for transporting home. If you're not going
to put it up right away, do not put a fresh cut the
bottom. Caring for your cut tree: [A Christmas
tree is a living thing; treat it as you would a cut flower
to keep it fresh]. 1.) If you buy your tree several
days before setting it up, store it outdoors in a cool and
shady place, protected from wind and sun. You may want to
make a fresh flat cut on the butt of the tree (remove about
1 inch), and store upright in a container of water. 2.) Spray
your tree with WiltStop. This seals moisture in the
needles, keeping your tree fresher, longer. Do this before
bringing the tree into the house. (Use WiltStop on all your
fresh Holiday greens.) 3.) When
you bring the tree inside for decorating, make another fresh
flat cut at the base before placing it in the stand. If
you're going right from our tree lot to the indoors (within
6-8 hours), our garden pros will make the fresh flat cut for
you. 4.) Place a 'tree disposal bag' around the
base of your tree before putting the tree in the stand.
This bag will help make clean up easier after the holidays
are over. 5.) Your new tree is thirsty! After
placing your tree in the stand, add warm water (containing
'Keep it Green' Christmas tree preservative) to the stand
immediately, and be prepared to add this water solution
daily, or as needed. Do not let the stand go dry. Once
dry, the bottom of the tree will seal back over and no
longer take up water. 6.) Place your cut tree away
from fireplaces, radiators, heat ducts, and any other source
of heat. Even in front of picture windows exposed to the
sun will heat up. 7.) Remember to check your
Christmas lights for safety, and turn them off when the tree
is unattended. And continue to check your tree for
freshness. Use good judgment when deciding if a tree is too
dry and needs to be taken down.
_____________________________________________________
It may
be close to December, but we need to address the lawn just
one more time before the end of the year. 1.) Keep mowing
the lawn until it has stopped growing. This is very
important. And if you live in an area where snow mold has
been a problem, feel free to lower your mowing height ½ inch
for the final couple mowings. 2.) Now's the time for that
final feeding for the lawn, using a high nitrogen
fertilizer. No, this won't encourage your lawn to keep
growing, but instead, keeps your lawn looking greener
through the winter, and actually helps it get off to a
better start next spring. Remember this feeding, along with
the late summer feeding, are the 2 most important feedings
you can give your lawn. 3.) If there are leaves still
falling in the lawn, make sure you keep collecting the
leaves. Wet leaves left on the grass over the winter will
shade and smother the grass below, so keep leaves off the
lawn. 4.) When you're finished mowing for the season, take
your lawn mower in and have it serviced. Do it now, rather
than waiting for next spring, when everybody else wants to
get their mowers serviced!
[You know its 2007 when you leave the house without your
cell phone (which you didn't have the first 20-30-40 years
of your life) and it becomes a panic situation meaning you
turn around and go home to get it.]
From the Garden to the Kitchen
"Hey
Rita what's Cooking?"
Yardboy,
as I write this column your namesake is just outside my
window, strutting around and looking for mischief. Just
like you! Actually, it's my fault because I forgot to shut
the door to their pen last night so the hens and he have
free range of the yard this morning. I'll be starting my
gifts from the kitchen today, and I wanted to share two of
my favorites, which are good keepers.
Pretty
candy cane peppermint sauce
Now
every time I make it I wind up with a small amount of
candies that won't melt at the bottom of the pan. So if that
happens to you, don't worry - just dump that bit out.
Wonderful over ice cream, frozen yogurt or cake.
1 to 1-1/2 cups crushed peppermint candy
l-l/2 cups whipping cream
l jar, 7 oz., marshmallow crème
Combine all ingredients in saucepan and cook over medium
heat until smooth, stirring constantly. Most of the
peppermint will melt. Let cool a bit. Pour into containers
and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks.
Fragrant
cinnamon ornaments
Get
ready to have the house smell like Christmas! This is a
wonderful "dough" for little hands, and can be used to make
any kind of ornament for any kind of celebration. Remember,
though, these are not edible but do last from year to
year.
3/4
cup applesauce
1-1/4 cups cinnamon
Blend
together well. If necessary, add a bit more cinnamon, or
applesauce. Dust work surface with cinnamon and roll out
1/8" thick. Cut as desired and poke hole in top with straw.
Bake in preheated 17-175 degree oven for 1 hour. Turn oven
off but leave ornaments in for at least 4 hours or
overnight. Decorate as desired.
-Rita
Nader Heikenfeld, CCP / Macy's Regional Culinary
Professional / Herbalist / Author / Local TV and Radio
Cooking Expert / Adjunct Professor U.C. Clermont College /
Community Press Papers / Part time Witchdoctor / Maker of
strange potions /
www.abouteating.com
[You know its 2007 when you get up in the morning and go on
line before getting your coffee.]
Yardboy's "Plant to Ponder"
The
Holiday Season is upon us, full of traditions and rich in
history, including the plant, "Flores de Noche Buena", or
commonly known as the Poinsettia. This large growing
perennial flowering shrub is native to Mexico, and may have
remained a regional plant, had it not been for the efforts
of Joel Roberts Poinsett, who was the first United States
Ambassador to Mexico. While in Mexico, Poinsett, who was
also a botanist, became enchanted by the brilliant red
leafed plants he saw during the short days of winter, and
sent some back to his home in South Carolina, where he began
propagating the plants and sending them to his friends. One
thing led to another, and well, thanks to nurseryman Robert
Buist, who began selling them right around the holiday
season, the Poinsettia became a holiday tradition. And, by
an Act of Congress, December 12 was set aside as National
Poinsettia Day!
Poinsettias are a day light sensitive plant, meaning that as
the days get shorter, their foliage reacts by turning
colors. These are called bracts. The actual flower of the
poinsettia is in the center of the colorful bracts.
Through the years, plant breeders have taken the traditional
red poinsettia, and have developed many different colors to
chose, including so many different shades of pinks and reds,
marbled, spotted, plum, white, which by the way, through all
the plant breeding, there are still no perfect white
poinsettias (they're actually an off white or cream color).
!
And what
about the folklore that says Poinsettias are deathly
poisonous? Well, it's simply not true, according to
research done at Thee Ohio State University. As a matter of
fact, at one time in history, the milky sap was used in a
preparation to help treat high fevers. Yes, the milky sap
could cause minor skin irritation, and a very high
consumption of these bitter tasting leaves could cause sore
throats, and upset stomachs, but that's it. And again, they
are very bitter in taste, and it would take a lot of leaf
eating to cause any 'minor' problems.
[You know its 2007 when you haven't played solitaire with
real cards in years. Just ask my wife!]
A Little
Bit of This, A Little Bit of That
As the
fall season winds down and we see winter around the corner,
if you have newly planted trees, or trees planted with less
than 3-4 inches in trunk diameter, you may want to give a
little extra protection. You see, newly planted trees or
those with trunk diameters less than 3-4 inches or so,
especially smooth skinned trees, can be subject to a couple
different types of damages over the winter.
1.)
Critter damages. And this includes critters as small as a
vole (v-o-l-e), rabbits, and as large a buck deer.
Voles, mice and rabbits can chew on the bark of younger
trees and shrubs over the winter for food, so keeping the
mulch pulled away from the trunks of the trees will reduce
there hiding area, and reduce chewing. Buck deer love
smaller trees anytime during the fall and winter, as they us
them for a scratching stick for their antlers. So
protecting the trunks of younger trees, especially if you
know there are deer in your area, is very important. One of
the best ways to protect your tree trunks from both
critters, is using either tree wrap, or plastic drain pipe
cut to fit around the tree trunk, or using the ones sold at
local garden stores. By placing these barriers around the
trunk, starting at ground level, it protects the trunk from
mice or voles chewing at ground level, and the deer from
rubbing at deer level. I also suggest using repellents
around the trees, such as Liquid Fence, Repels All,
DeerScram, or an all natural fertilizer called Milorganite,
which will lightly feed while acting as a repellent.
2.)
Frost Cracks. Frost cracks occur when smaller smooth
skinned tree trunks are exposed to very cold temperatures,
then, as the sun comes up and hits the side of the tree, the
cells in the bark explodes, causing a frost crack. You'll
notice these on the south or west side of the tree trunk.
By using the tree trunk protectors, they block the suns rays
and reduce frost crack damages. So make sure you protect
your young tree investments this winter - use tree trunk
protectors.
[You know its 2007 when your reason for not staying in touch
with family and friends is that they don't have email
addresses. You also know its 2007 when you start titling
your head sideways to smile.]
|
