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In This Issue
Weather It's The
Weather
What's Bugging
You
Questionmark and
Mysterian
Success Tip of
the Week
From the Garden
to the Kitchen
Plant to Ponder
Contact
Information
Up
Coming Events
Cincinnati Zoo
& Botanical Garden's
"Best" Garden Party
Fri. Sept. 28
5-8:00pm
Refreshments, Entertainment, & Silent Auction / Celebrity
Live Auction
Come celebrate the 2007 Best Annuals at the "Best" garden
party!
$25 per person
cincinnatizoo.org
513-559-7759
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Makeover
Newsletter
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Success Tip Sheets
Landscape Design Kit
Gift Cards
Rita's Recipes
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Whether It's The Weather
As this
newsletter is being written, the sky has begun to cloud a
bit, and yes, there is a prediction of rain tonight and
tomorrow. I'll believe it when I see and feel it. Folks,
Joe Boggs / OSU Extension and I had a long discussion about
the current conditions, and we both said the same thing.
"We're in no man's land" - we're in a situation that we have
not been faced with in past gardening history. A long hot
and dry summer, extending through the month of September and
who knows what for the rest of the fall? Normal September
gardening practices have been tossed out the window, and now
we're faced with trying to make decisions (mostly lawn care)
what to do at this stage. Having never been there, we have
no notes or experiences to look back on. So the decisions
are based on past knowledge, speculation, a little but of
guessing, and keeping our fingers crossed the weather will
change to the positive.
Although September is the best time for seeding and that
first feeding, if you haven't done anything due to the lack
of water and a dormant lawn, we're suggesting that you
pretend it is early September, and to go ahead and feed and
seed. Both the seed and fertilizer will remain dormant
until it rains or you begin to irrigate, but having both in
place, we feel, is the best thing to do at this stage. Yes,
you will take a chance with the possibility of the weather
changing to cold early and possibly losing some of the new
grass, but looking at past records, you're chances are
pretty good that it won't happen. As Joe says, "Bad fall
seeding is better than good spring seeding". And that's why
its worth the risk going ahead and feeding and seeding now.
And if you decide to not seed, still apply a fertilizer to
the lawn (yes even if its dormant), so that if we do get
rainfall and what existing grass does try to recover, the
nitrogen will be available to help it re-grow. Remember,
the fertilizer will sit tight until it gets moisture. If
you do not do anything this fall, you risk having a dormant
or thinned lawn going into the winter, which opens up the
possibilities of water erosion, as well as going into the
spring with no lawn, and guess who's going to love you for
that? The weeds! As a matter of fact, winter annuals
(chickweed and henbit) are chomping at the bit right now
looking at all the dormant lawns, which are perfect for them
to take over during the fall, winter, and of course, next
spring. Just another reason why we're saying move forward
with the lawns like it was early September and let's get
them fired back up!
That's our story and we're sticking to it. If you can get
the lawn back and growing this fall, you'll be way ahead of
the game, versus trying to deal with a disaster lawn next
spring - although it can be done if needed.
[No one is in charge of your happiness except you.]
What's Bugging You
Still
looking good in the yardboy's garden. Funnel spiders are
really making a show on hedges, and we're seeing a few
yellow jackets buzzing around. Ants seem to be on the go
all of a sudden, but other than that, all is good.
This
week Buggy Joe Boggs is reporting locust borers feeding on
the pollen of the goldenrod, monarch butterflies now making
their move migrating back to Mexico, an increase in reports
of praying mantis in the garden (by the way, they eat all
bugs good or bad, including each other especially the
females, who enjoy eating their mate right after mating OR
while still in the act.), mole activity increasing in lawns
and gardens, and cool season mites making their appearances
now.
Catch
The Buggy Joe Boggs Report every Saturday at 8:42am on 55KRC
The Talk Station.
ashalert.osu.edu
www.emeraldashborer.info
[Your children get only one childhood. Make it memorable.]
Questionmark and the Mysterians -
Your Questions Answered
"I'm going to attempt to core aerate and slice seed the lawn
this weekend. I was going to water, and hopefully we'll get
the rain they're calling for. Any suggestions where to rent
these pieces of equipment? Is this something a homeowner
can do by himself?"
-Many
tool rentals will offer slice seeders and aerators. I use
Econowise Tool Rental in Mason (398-8626 - they have about
anything imaginable needed for any project!). These are
powerful machines and bulky, but the folks at Econowise will
explain how to use them properly. It's not an easy job, but
can be done by the homeowner, as they are self propelled.
If it seems too much, call our Landscape Maintenance at
398-4769.
"Can I
cut my evergreens back in the late fall?" Well, you can,
but remember that when you're finished, that's the way
they'll look for the next 5-6 months. Little hand pruning
in the fall is one thing. But for harder more severe
pruning, wait until spring, just before they begin to send
out new growth. We should be doing very little if any
pruning of woody plants right now.
"With
this continued heat and dry soils, do you advise that we
still plant trees and shrubs this fall?" Absolutely!
Yes, you may have to pre water to be able to dig the hole
for planting, but fall is still thee best time for planting
most trees, shrubs, perennials, etc. As far as watering
after
planting, you would have to do that anyway, no matter what
the weather (unless it rained all the time!). So yes,
you're still better off planting in the fall. Just keep
those newly planted plants watered.
"What do
you suggest we do with our dormant lawn at this stage?" Go
back up to Whether its the Weather. We address you question
there.
"I was
told to stop deadheading my roses. Why is that?" -Leaving
the spent flowers on roses basically tells the stem to stop
growing and harden off for the winter. Most will form a
rose hip at the end of the stem. We want them to slow down
and begin getting ready for the winter, so we stop the
deadheading.
"I want
to get rid of horseradish without contaminating the soil
with poisons. I tried digging but they keep coming
back." -If you spray the foliage with Roundup or Kleenup,
they spread only thru the plant and not thru the soil. So
no worries about poisons in the soil. And it will take
multiple applications to get rid of horseradish! If you
want something more natural, use Espoma's Weed and Grass
Killer, or vinegar. Again, spray it only on the horseradish
foliage. This is one reason I like growing horseradish in
containers.
"Can I
bring in some of my herbs growing outdoors indoors for the
winter?" -You sure can! Within the next couple weeks,
dig up the better growing plants and repot them in
containers with potting soil. Water well, and sit them in a
semi shady location (outdoors) to adjust to their new home
(pot) and to a lower light condition. Trim as needed, look
for bugs (hose off or spray with insecticidal soaps), water
as needed, etc. Then bring them indoors, giving them as
much sunlight as possible. You may have to supplement with
a grow light. Water only as needed. Rosemary may be the
toughest to do, but others that do fairly well include
oregano, parsley, thyme, sage, mints, basil and chives.
"Can
I go ahead and cut back nasty looking perennial foliage
now?" -Yes. If they look bad, cut them back. If its a
perennial with seed heads that may feed the birds, you may
want to leave those alone. But otherwise, go ahead and
clean up that nasty looking foliage (or spent flowers).
Success Tip of the Week
Composting in the Backyard - Composting is a practical and
convenient way to handle yard trimmings such as leaves,
excess grass, chipped brush, plant cuttings, etc. And the
results of your composting efforts will one of the best soil
amendments that no money can buy! (And it's a better
option than sending this yard waste to the landfills!) The
compost equation: Carbon + Nitrogen + Water + Air =
COMPOST! By combining your yard trimmings and other clean
yard or vegetable wastes with soil or garden fertilizer,
keeping the pile properly moistened and turned, the compost
pile begins to heat and cook as the bacteria and fungi break
down the ingredients.
What
can I compost? -Leaves, grass clippings, plant refuse, wood
chips, sod, livestock manures, vegetative kitchen scrapes,
weeds, straw, pine needles, dead plants, aquarium water /
algae and plants, some newspapers, wood ash, egg shells,
coffee grounds and lot's more. Stay away from meat, bones,
dairy products, cat / dog feces, cooking oils, things
sprayed with pesticides, even insect and diseased plants.
NOTE: Although grass clippings can be added to the compost
pile, they are best returned back to the turf where they
belong. Clippings returned to the turf will generate 25% of
your lawn's total fertilizer needs. So don't bag it; return
those clippings back to the turf!
Where
should my compost pile be located? - Find an out of sight
area that is well drained, away from tree roots, not in the
shade, and accessible with a garden hose. Remove any sod
underneath so the pile will be in direct contact with the
soil.
Building the compost pile - Composting does not require a
bin, but they do help to keep the pile neat and easier to
handle. Bins need to be at least 3x3x3' to heat properly.
A 5x5x5' is a much nicer size to work with. Ready made bins
are available, or can be made with concrete blocks, chicken
wire, fencing, wooden slats, etc. The sides must be
designed to allow proper air flow to the pile. You may even
consider the compost tumblers for ease of turning the pile.
Creating the compost pile - Layer the materials you'll be
using in your compost pile. 6-8 inches of materials, a
little fertilizer, some garden soil, moisten, layer again,
and again until reaching the 3-5' height. Now it's up to
you to help monitor proper moisture levels as the composting
begins. Turning the pile will begin about one week after
the initial pile is made. Move the inside of the pile to
the outside. When your pile is really cooking, it will heat
to 140-160 degrees in the middle! Your finished compost
will be dark in color, crumbly in nature, and have an
'earthy' smell. The pile should be reduce to 1/3 to ½ its
original size.
Composting Tips - If the compost has a bad smell, turn it to
provide more air. If the center is dry, moisten and turn
the pile. If the compost is damp and warm only in the
middle, the pile is too small. If the pile is damp and
sweet smelling but still won't heat up, add nitrogen. And
remember, yard waste will compost quicker, when finely
ground. Good luck!
For
more information, visit
ohioline.osu.edu / Composting at Home.
[Life isn't tied with a bow, but it's still a gift.]
From the Garden to the Kitchen
"Hey
Rita what's Cooking?"
Yardboy,
you should see my hands. Well, actually, I'm glad you can't.
we've been gathering wood for the woodstove, plus I'm
starting to "put my garden to bed". Today's recipes aren't
for the inside of your body, but for the outside. They are
wonderful and yes, make nice gifts, as well.
Rita's Gardener's Hand Salve
As an
herbalist, I love this simple salve for garden-weary hands.
Fun to make with kids.
Melt
together:
6 tablespoons almond oil
1 tablespoon cocoa butter
1 tablespoon beeswax.
Stir, let mixture cool. Stir in several drops of peppermint
oil or your favorite essential oil.
Simple Salt Scrub -
This is great for those rough areas like heels, elbows, even
legs and arms.
When
using salts for bath salts, I like to use sea salt for its
purity and minerals. Sea salt is formed from surface
evaporation, naturally, while most table salts are made by
vacuum pan evaporation. To use fresh or dry herbs is fine
instead of essential oils. Just be sure to crush them to
release their oils before adding to the salt scrub.
Mix
together 3 tablespoons or so of sea salt, 1 tablespoon Epsom
salt and enough base oil to make a paste (olive, almond,
grapeseed, apricot, jojoba, sunflower, etc.). Now add a few
drops essential oil of your choice or 1 tablespoon minced
fresh bath herb or 2 teaspoons dry, minced also. Rub on wet
skin (avoid face) and scrub. Then rinse off.
-Rita
Nader Heikenfeld, CCP / Macy's Regional Culinary
Professional / Herbalist / Author / Local TV and Radio
Cooking Expert / Adjunct Professor U.C. Clermont College /
Community Press Papers / Part time Witchdoctor / Maker of
strange potions /
www.abouteating.com
[Those who matter don't judge me. Those who judge me don't
matter.]
Yardboy's "Plant to Ponder"
Every
year, the Society of Municipal Arborists chooses their urban
tree of the year. And this year, the 2007 winner can say it
made its way out of the swamps and into the landscapes from
the south all the way north to Minnesota.
The
2007 Urban Tree of the year is Taxodium distichum, or
commonly known as Bald Cypress. Yes, you think of bald
cypress in the swamps down south, but this stately tree has
the adaptability to grow in swamplands or on the high
plains.
Considered a deciduous evergreen (meaning it loses its
needles in the fall), this wonderful tree has sage green
needles in summer changing to a russet brown for the fall,
as well as this very attractive reddish brown fibrous bark.
Bald
Cypress is hardy to zone 4, has 4 seasons of interest in the
landscape, is relatively pest free, and makes a great
specimen tree, street tree, screenings and in groupings and
grove plantings.
Yes,
Bald Cypress will tolerate wet soils, but does equally well
in dry soils. As a matter of fact, although they began
showing fall colors early, they have held up quite nicely
during this year's heat and drought. And those cypress
knees that show up around the tree root system that you see
in the swamps, well, they usually only show up when the
trees are planted in wetter soils. Bald Cypress - the 2007
Urban Tree of the Year.
I would
also like to mention another tree I have become more and
more impressed with. It's Alnus rugosa or commonly known as
Speckled Alder. Dark shiney green leaves, moderately fast
growth rate, reaching about 20 feet or so, and the bark is
speckled with white lenticels. It does produce small
catkins which are attractive as well. Tolerates poor soils,
wet soils, and can actually be used as a specimen or for
erosion control along banks and slopes. It truly is a very
unique and attractive looking smaller tree.
[An apology is a good way to have the last word.]
A Little
Bit of This, A Little Bit of That
I just
wanted to take this time to send our prayers and sympathy to
our co-worker Joe Merland and family on this loss of Joe's
wife Kathy, who has been battling cancer for a very long
time. Through all that time, Kathy was one of the most
positive, fun loving, always smiling, and nicest person that
you would ever want to know. Her attitude through this long
battle has been one that I (along with many others) have
simply admired, and could only hope that I would be able to
be half as upbeat and positive about life as she was, if I
were faced with the same challenges. Her strength, her
smile, and her wonderful personality will stay in our
memories forever.
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