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Whether It's The Weather
Well,
according to the producer of the gardening show Joe Strecker,
the next chance of rain is April 2014! Seems that way
doesn't it? Weekend cooler temps were a welcomed relief,
but then right back up this week. Hopefully summer will
finally give in and let fall kick into place. In the
meantime, keep watering folks. I know I don't pay your
water bill, and you're getting tired of hearing me say this,
but if you don't, the costs in the long run (plant
replacement / plant damages) may far outweigh the costs of
smart watering right now. Please keep watering as best you
can!
[You
might be from Ohio if you know what a buckeye really is, and
have a recipe for candied ones. -Jeff Foxworthy]
[By the way, my mom makes thee best buckeyes in the world! -rw]
What's Bugging You
Not much
buggin the yardboy this week. Even the spider at our back
door has disappeared. So, we're good to go this week. Oh,
one thing that I have been watching - the squirrels have
been exceptionally busy gathering the early dropping walnuts
and hiding them around our deck. They've even stuffed a few
in really weird places like between the wooden fence and the
post, behind the heat pump, under a step - my wife actually
thought I had done that! Anyway, not sure if that's a sign
from natural on what's to come for winter?
On the
other hand, this week Buggy Joe Boggs (OSU Extension) is
reporting his favorite bug doing its late summer thing - the
ant lion has begun creating their pitfall funnels in the dry
soils, where ants and other insects fall in and get grabbed
by the antlion, who is conveniently hiding in the soil at
the bottom of the pitfall. I have to admit its pretty cool
to watch. Joe likes them so much, he actually caught
several and put them in an aquarium with sand to watch them
do their thing in his house. He collected ants and dropped
them in the sand to watch the antlions attack and feast.
Yes, he is a sick man.
Catch
the Buggy Joe Boggs Report Saturdays at 8:42am on 55KRC The
Talk Station.
ashalert.osu.edu
www.emeraldashborer.info
[You might be from Ohio if can spell words like Cuyahoga,
Olentangy, Bellefontaine, Tuscarawas, Wapakoneta and you
know which letter is doubled in Cincinnati. -Jeff
Foxworthy]
Questionmark and the Mysterians -
Your Questions Answered
"We purchased a tree from the Outlet Sale, but the ground is
so hard, we're having a hard time digging the hole. Any
suggestions?" -Yes. First, make sure you keep you tree
watered until it gets planted, and, of course, after it gets
planted. Second, I believe the best digging tool you can
have is a very sharp square spade. And very sharp is a key
here for digging in moist or dry soils. Adding moisture to
the soil before planting is key, but how to do it when its
this dry can be tough. Here's what I would suggest. Mark
the circle where the tree is to be planted and remove the
sod. Now, you can lay the garden hose in the middle of this
circle (depression) and let the water slowly trickle into
the area and down into the soil. I would also use a Ross
Root Feeder (water only) and place it about 15 - 18 inches
deep right in the center of the circle to get moisture down
deeper in the soil. Doing both of these will add moisture
to the soil on top and down 15-18 inches. Do this one day
and dig the hole the next day. Again, keep your tree
watered until you're ready to plant, and then water the tree
as directed after planting. I may also suggest that if you
have multiple trees to plant, consider renting a gas powered
auger or even a ditch witch to help drill the initial
holes. These would be available at tool rentals such as
Econowise in Mason.
NOTE:
IF YOU HAVE PURCHASED PLANTS FROM THE OUTLET SALE, GARDEN
STORES, WHEREVER, AND CANNOT GET THEM PLANTED RIGHT AWAY,
PLEASE KEEP THEM WATERED REGULARLY IN THEIR POTS OR BALLED
AND BURLAPPED ROOT BALLS. VERY IMPORTANT!
"We
planted a magnolia last spring, which has been doing well,
but now notice a dark substance on many of the leaves and
white crusts forming on the branches. What do I do to keep
from losing this tree?" -Sounds like magnolia scale. You
can spray now with horticultural oil or insecticidal soaps,
now and again in 7-10 days for 3 sprayings. Then give it a
dormant spray with the OIL early next spring. You could hit
it again mid to late April once or twice, then let's see
where we stand. If needed, you could go again with the
sprays in late August / thru mid September. That should get
it into check.
"Is
it good to apply Preen this late in the season?"
-Absolutely! Applying Preen to the landscape beds late
summer and early fall helps to stop those obnoxious early
spring weeds, which are actually winter annuals, like
chickweed, purslane, and henbit. They all begin to
germinate early fall and into early winter.
"How
can I start new plants from my raspberries and
blackberries?" -Try taking new shoots, bending them over,
and covering them with soil. They will root over the fall,
and then can be cut, dug and replanted elsewhere.
"Is
it necessary to have your lawn aerated every year?" -Not
really, unless your lawn has extremely hard clay and
receives a lot of foot traffic / excessive compaction. Then
every fall may be a good thing. Some extremely compacted
areas will core aerate twice a year! Every other year,
every third year, every year, twice a year, whatever you
decide to do, your lawn will thank you for it.
"Every year, we deal with those obnoxious walnuts falling in
our yard (and unfortunately, we have several walnut trees).
Is there anyone who would want them?" -Actually, you can
sell your walnuts! Go to
www.onga.org
for more information about walnut buyers and sellers. By
the way, I learned about an interesting tool that helps
collect walnuts, acorns, sweetgum balls, golf balls, etc.,
called The Nut Wizard. If you have those things falling in
your yard, this may be a good answer for you.
www.thenutwizard.com
[You
might be from Ohio if "toward the lake" means north, and
"toward the river" means south. -Jeff Foxworthy]
Success Tip of the Week
Bringing
Plants Indoors For the Winter If you've been growing your
tropical plants outdoors all summer, as summer fades and
fall is on the horizon, it's time to get them ready to go
back inside the house for the winter. Begin this process in
mid September, so the plants will be ready to go indoors
before the weather gets too cold. And always keep an eye
open for that early frost!
Bringing
Plants Indoors:
1.) The first thing to do is to move your tropical or
non-hardy plants into a shady location outside, and leave
then there for 10 days to 2 weeks. This helps to acclimate
them to the lower light conditions they'll be receiving once
inside your home. By the way, during this time, do be aware
of possible cold temperatures and even frosts, where your
plants will need extra protection!
2.) Just before bringing them inside, 3 things for you
to do. Hose them off with a strong stream of water. You may
even want to do this a couple times while they're
acclimating in the shade. This helps to blow off any
insects that may be hanging out on the plants. Immediately
before bringing them inside, give your plants a good
spraying of insecticidal soap, making sure you spray tops
and bottoms of the leaves, stems, trunks and all. Again,
trying to get rid of any hitchhiking bugs! (If you do this
the same day you're bringing them inside, let the spray dry,
then bring the plants indoors.) And one last thing. If
possible, lay the plant on its side, slide it out of the
pot, and inspect the root ball for any unwanted bugs or
anything else that may be hiding in the bottom of the pot.
Rodents, even snakes have been found hiding here.
One
way to make sure nothing is in the soil (ants, etc.) is to
fill a large tub with water, and then submerge the pot in
the water for several hours. Anything in the soil will
either drown, or will float to the top of the water. It's
also a great way to soak the soil. Just make sure you allow
it plenty of time to drain before bringing it into the
house.
3.) Move your tropical plant indoors to a well-lit area
indoors, and away from heat vents and cold drafts. Place a
saucer under the pot. As a general rule, water the plants
well, let dry, water again. And never let water sit in the
saucer. Use luke warm water for watering.
4.) Expect leaves to drop as the plants make their final
acclimation to the indoor lighting. It's natural. And do
keep your eyes open for any flare-ups of insects on the
plants. Keep insecticidal soaps, systemic insecticides, and
whitefly traps on hand just in case.
5.) Reduce feeding to an occasional shot of a
water-soluble fertilizer, which can be increased once the
days start to get longer, come next spring!
Again, do expect leaves to fall once the plants are inside,
as the sunlight just isn't what it was outside. Stick with
them, water only as needed, watch for outbreaks of insects
and catch them early, and your tropical plants should make
it through the winter, and be ready to get back outside late
next spring. We also suggest a good rinsing off several
times through the winter, and the shower is the perfect
place to do it! Knocks off many bugs, cleans the leaves,
and the plants love the water and the humidity in the
shower. Use luke-warm water, and let them shower for 5-10
minutes.
[You might be from Ohio if you live less than 30 miles from
some college or university. -Jeff Foxworthy]
From the Garden to the Kitchen
"Hey
Rita what's Cooking?"
Yardboy,
I've been getting requests from our readers on how to
preserve pumpkins. I'm glad to see there are still people
like me who actually preserve the pumpkins they grow or
purchase for future use. Here's how it works:
Preparing the Pumpkin: Remove the stem. If you are
planning to roast the seeds smash the pumpkin against a hard
surface to break it open. If not, cut it in half with a
sharp knife. Scoop out the seeds and scrape away all of the
stringy mass.
Cooking
the Pumpkin: Cut the pumpkin into large chunks. Rinse in
cold water. Place the pieces in a large pot with a cup of
water. The water does not need to cover the pieces. Cover
the pot and boil for 20 minutes or until tender, or stem for
10-12 minutes. Check for doneness by poking with a fork.
Drain the cooked pumpkin in a colander.
Oven
Method - Cut pumpkin in half, scraping away stringy mass and
seeds. Rinse under cold water. Place pumpkin, cut side
down, on a large cookie sheet. Bake at 350 degrees for one
hour or until fork tender.
Microwave Method - Prepare as done above, then place cut
side down on a microwave safe plate or tray. Microwave on
high for 15 minutes, check for doneness. If necessary
continue cooking at 1-2 minute intervals until fork tender.
Making
Puree for the Freezer - When the pumpkin is cool enough to
handle, remove the peel using a small sharp knife and your
fingers. Be careful! Put the peeled pumpkin in a food
processor and puree, or sue a food mill, ricer, strainer or
potato masher to form a puree. Pumpkin puree freezes well.
To freeze, measure cooled puree into appropriate portions
and freeze in suitable containers. Frozen pumpkin keeps for
about 1 year. Use the puree as needed in the same amounts
as canned pumpkin in recipes.
Sweet
and Spicy Pumpkin Seeds - Some recipes suggest boiling the
seeds for 10 minutes, then laying them out to dry before
proceeding to toss with spices and drying them in the oven.
But do remember seeds must be completely dry before
combining with spices. You'll need: 2 cups pumpkin seeds,
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar, 1/2 teaspoon ea. of salt,
cinnamon, ginger and cumin, Pinch or two of cayenne (to
taste), 1/4 cup peanut oil.
Preheat
over to 250 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment
paper. Spread seeds on parchment and bake until dry,
stirring occasionally, about 1 hour. Let cool. Combine 5
tablespoons of the sugar and the spices. Set aside. Heat
oil in a large non stick skillet on medium to high heat.
Add seeds and rest of sugar (4 tablespoons) and cook until
sugar melts and seeds begin to caramelize. This will take
just about a minute. Don't let them burn. Place in a bowl,
sprinkle with spices and mix well. Let cool and store in
covered container a week or so.
-Rita
Nader Heikenfeld, CCP / Macy's Regional Culinary
Professional / Herbalist / Author / Local TV and Radio
Cooking Expert / Adjunct Professor U.C. Clermont College /
Community Press Papers / Part time Witchdoctor / Maker of
strange potions /
www.abouteating.com
[You might be from Ohio if you had to switch from Heat to
A/C in the same day. -Jeff Foxworthy]
Yardboy's "Plant to Ponder"
It's
time to say goodbye to one hot dry summer and hello to the
fall. And that means its time for planting fall flowers! I
love the fall - and you know its here when its time to plant
cold hardy flowers that give us spectacular fall colors -
some right up until Thanksgiving!
Ornamental cabbage and kale - these oldies but goodies
provide planters and landscapes wonderful and unusual
foliage textures, and the colder it gets, the more colorful
they get. Creams to pinks to lavenders, ornamental cabbage
and kale is one you can always count on for late fall
colors.
Asters - another oldie but goodie, these cold hardy late
bloomers with their star shaped flowers will brighten any
gloomy fall day. They are a perennial, so plan on the
asters coming back again next year.
Pansies - when you plant pansies in the fall, not only do
you get fall color galore, you may get winter colors as
well, and then a resurgence of colors all thru the early
spring. So you can get a 3 season show when planting
pansies in the fall.
Montauk daisies - here's a perennial that not a lot of
gardeners are familiar with. Wonderful glossy green foliage
in the summer, almost succulent like, and then they become
loaded with white daisy like flowers very late in the
season. That's Montauk daisies.
And
of course, you can't go thru the fall without planting the
number one perennial sold throughout the United States - the
garden mum. This perennial comes in a multitude of colors,
and with proper timing of the flowering, again can provide
great colors for planters or the landscape easily up until
Halloween or longer.
Remember these all do quite well in pots or in the ground,
so there's no reason why you can't enjoy these wonderful
colors all fall season.
[You might be from Ohio if you install security lights on
your house and garage and leave both unlocked. -Jeff
Foxworthy]
A Little
Bit of This, A Little Bit of That
Now that
fall is here, if you're out planting fall colors like mums
and asters and pansies and Montauk daisies and cabbage and
kale, don't forget there are even more fall flowers to help
add a little Fall Magic to your plantings! Looking beyond
the old standbys, here are more wonderful plants to add fall
magic colors to your planters and landscape:
Look
at the cold hardy annuals such as dianthus - snapdragons
-dusty millers and stock. They'll take some pretty hard
cold weather - as well as verbena, nemesia, superbells, and
osteospermum.
And
how about these cool plants for fall colors - ajuga Black
Scallop with outstanding foliage - Leadwort with its great
foliage and flowers - Lysimachia with its golden coin shaped
leaves that just gives a foliar show like no other vine
- Variegated sages - sedum Angelina with its outstanding
golden needle like foliage -liriope and ornamental grasses -
a wide assortment of sedges - or how about adding coral
bells for a little foliage color? There are many different
coral bells that will do wonderful in pots or in the ground.
And
don't forget the ornamental peppers - although they're not
cold hardy, they certainly add a little pepper magic to your
fall planters. By the way you can take them inside and
enjoy them as a houseplant - and yes, the peppers are
edible. But be careful - some are mild, but many are
extremely hot. Now you've got several ways to add a little
fall magic to your planters or landscape.
[And last but not least, you might be from Ohio if you know
what it means when someone yells, "GO BUCKS!" -Ron Wilson]
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