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In This Issue
Weather It's The
Weather
What's Bugging
You
Questionmark and
Mysterian
Success Tip of
the Week
From the Garden
to the Kitchen
Plant to Ponder
Contact
Information
Up
Coming Events
Natorp's Nursery Outlet Sale is coming!
Sept. 14, 15, 16, 22, 23 8601 Snider Road
Mason
Over 155,000 plants to chose from. Food and
drinks as well as Graeter's Ice Cream!
Visit www.natorp.com for more info. See you there!
"Twilight in The Gardens"
Sat. Sept.22 6-10pm
An Evening of Art
& Music
Baker Hunt Art & Cultural Center, 620 Greenup St, Covington
(Live music, food & wine sampling, art, etc.)
859-431-0020
www.bakerhunt.com
"Lawn Establishment, Renovation &Care"
(seeding, feeding, core aerating, irrigating, pests, and
more)
Aug. 28 9-11am
Boone Co. Extension
Free but please call to reg. 859-586-6101
The Cincinnati Zoo and Botanical Garden invites you to check
out their 2007 'annual' plant trials. Over 150 varieties of
annuals are planted in
the Zoo's gardens and containers, and are labeled so you'll
know what they are! As usual, Steve Foltz and crew
have done a great job
with the displays of summer colors. Take pictures / take
notes for next years plantings at your home!
Quick Links
$10,000 Landscape
Makeover
Newsletter
Archive
Success Tip Sheets
Landscape Design Kit
Gift Cards
Rita's Recipes
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Whether It's The Weather
HOT AND
DRY - that continues to be the story. Seriously dry, and
seriously hotter than normal. Not a good combination. Keep
watering as best you can. If you anticipate seeding and
core aerating within the next couple weeks, if we do not get
rain, you will need to water in advance, and of course
afterwards as needed. Hopefully, September will be kinder
with cooler temps and a some normal rainfalls.
[When asked what three things you would take on a deserted
island, why doesn't anyone ever say "a boat"?]
What's Bugging You
I'm
starting to get the usual late rush of calls and emails from
panicked homeowners who are just now noticing bagworm
damages on their evergreens. Feeding has stopped (for the
most part). Spraying is over (too late). Hand picking is
in (physical removal - crush when picking). And you have
between now and mid May 2008 to try and get them picked
off. If not, be ready to spray late June. Will the
evergreens recover next year? They're not very good at
that, so only time will tell.
This
week Buggy Joe Boggs (OSU Extension) is reporting groundhogs
and squirrels gnawing on tree bark (yes, groundhogs can
climb trees if needed - not sure why it is needed, but),
fall webworms and mimosa webworms grazing on many tree
leaves right now (dry leaves!), paper wasps, yellowjackets
and hornets are beginning their fall nuisance appearances,
root and stem rot on petunias, rust on turfgrass, and how
about this one - a homeowner was reporting tiny black spots
on the cars, which was at first thought to be from the
shotgun fungus. But upon closer observation (actual site
visit), large numbers of carpenter bees were seen flying
around and over the cars, and the black spots were indeed,
yes, bee poop! Now there's one for the record books.
Catch
the Buggy Joe Boggs Report Saturdays at 8:42am on 55KRC The
Talk Station.
Stay in
touch with the Emerald Ash Borer:
ashalert.osu.edu
www.emeraldashborer.info
[Hey Joe - if shampoos come in many different colors, why is
the lather always white?]
Questionmark and the Mysterians -
Your Questions Answered
"Does core aerating help the new seed to grow? What can I
do to help it along?" -Core aerating will help your
existing lawn more immediately, and the new grass sown a
little later down the road, as it helps to open up the soil
for better rooting. Slice seeding itself helps by cutting
groves in the soil, as well as making sure your seed has
good seed / soil contact, which is very important for good
seed germination. Using a starter fertilizer is also very
important for getting those new seeds up and growing, And,
of course, good even soil moisture during the entire
process.
NOTE: I
wanted to remind those of you who anticipate using a slice
seeder for new or over seeding the lawn, be sure to slice
seed at least 2 different directions. Take ½ of your seed
and slice seed north to south. Then take the other ½ and
slice seed the same area east to west. Some folks will even
go 'thirds' and slice seed diagonally 3 different ways.
Also, you will need good moisture in the soil for the core
aerator and slice seeder to work properly. So, watering 2
days in advance will be needed unless you have some good
rainfall!
"Something is eating the leaves on our knock out roses. We
have had Japanese Beatles but they are not on this rose
bush. The leaves look like they have white spots but on a
closer look the light spots are the beginning of holes. I
can not spot any insect on the top or underneath side of the
leaves. What can I use to stop whatever is eating them?
Thanks for you help." -From what you've described, it
sounds like you are experiencing rose slugs. Very small
caterpillar like insect feeding on the undersides of the
leaves, which cause light colored spots on top (actually
look like a window), and eventually a hole. Using a
systemic insecticide (applied as a soil drench around the
roots), as well as 2-3 foliar sprays using horticultural oil
and or insecticidal soaps (making sure you spray under the
leaves), should help to get them under control. You can
also look for the tiny critters (undersides of the leaves)
and smash them. Physical removal does a nice job. Of
course, the good thing about the Knock Out roses - if you
did nothing, the leaves look bad, but the rose keeps on
flowering!
"I have
clumps of crabgrass here and there in my lawn. I want to
seed, but what do I do about the crabgrass?" -Nothing;
just slice seed right through it. Or, you can dig it out,
or spray Roundup right in the center of the clump and kill
it first, then slice seed through it. It is an annual and
will die with the first good frost. The best defense
against crabgrass is a thick lawn and using a pre emergent
crabicide next spring. We're seeing a lot of crabgrass
thanks to the drought and thinning of the lawns. It really
steps up to the plate when the grass thins out! And, do
remember that crabgrass will continue to germinate right
into and thru the summer season, not just in the spring.
Its been a 'good' year for crabgrass!
"I have
a bluegrass / rye lawn. Why can't I seed tall fescues into
that?" -At first, this mix of grasses may look just fine.
But over the years, the tall fescues will begin to clump.
If the blues go dormant, you have clumps of green fescues.
If the ryes fade out, you have clumps of tall fescues. I
personally would not recommend it. Use the bluegrass / rye
mix, or go with a turf type tall fescue blend - like TLC.
"You say
use a starter fertilizer with the new grass seed. What is a
starter fertilizer?" -A starter fertilizer has a lower %
nitrogen and higher phosphorus. This one is a 20-27-5.
Look for the higher middle number.
"If
I'm not sowing seed now, which fertilizer should I use?"
-Use a fall fertilizer, which will have higher % nitrogen,
like Greenview's Fairway Formula Fall Application, or
Scott's Turf Builder.
"When
should I tackle existing weeds in the lawn." -Forget about
the weeds right now (unless the weeds are close to 50% of
the lawn and you want to kill everything with Roundup and
start all over), and get your seeding or over-seeding done,
as well as that first feeding. Tackle the weeds in mid to
late October, which is when the weeds are the most
susceptible to weed killers, than any other time the rest of
the year.
"Ron,
your newsletters are great, but last week you suggested
putting cayenne pepper on your houseplants to keep cats
away. It can blind them and is not very safe and wanted you
to know."
-Well,
the scent of the crushed peppers is usually what keeps them
away. But I guess if they got it in their eyes, it could be
a problem. I see your point. Thanks.
[If the door says "employees only", does that mean anybody
with a job can use it?
Success Tip of the Week
September is here, that means turf month, and what you do to
the lawn this month (and fall) is the backbone to how well
it can perform next year. So, let's take a look at 3 very
important things you could be doing - core aerating,
seeding, and feeding.
The
soil has to have good moisture. If it hasn't rained, water
the lawn 2-3 days in advance. Also mow it 2-3 days in
advance, so that it's at a lower height, and easier to
perform aerating and seeding. Soil moisture is a key here
in getting any of this to work. If it is extremely dry,
you'll need to pre-water and continue to water as needed, or
wait to see if natural rainfall occurs, and then aerate and
seed. But, the later you wait for seeding, the more the
window for the opportune time for seeding lawns will begin
to close. Now, we're not saying that you cannot
successfully seed in late September thru mid October. You
can be - many new lawns are established in the fall. But
you are in the hands of Mother Nature and weather changes.
That's why the earlier you can seed, the better your chances
for having the new seed up and growing and ready for the
winter. And if worse comes to worse, you can always wait
and dormant seed in the winter.
Core
aerate the lawn, using a core aerator. This machine
actually removes plugs from the soil, and deposits the plugs
on top. These holes help to open up the soil for better
water and fertilizer absorption, better airflow to the
roots, and helps to loosen heavy compacted soils. This can
be done annually if you have lot's of foot traffic or heavy
soils, and can be done spring or fall, as long as the grass
is actively growing. By the way, the cores of soil will
dry, break down, and return to the soils surface, so leave
them be. Core aerating is not a necessity, but is very
helpful to most lawns. This could also be an opportune time
for lightly topdressing with a fine compost, earthworm
castings, etc, and rake that into the open holes - a great
way to add organic matter to your soil!
Over
seeding to help thicken the lawn is one of the best defenses
against those pesky weeds. And the best way to do this is
using a seed slicer (slit seeder). The seed slicer slices
through the existing grass, and deposits the new grass seed
into the soil, which is very important for good seed
germination. For over seeding existing lawns, use a
compatible seed, or the same seed as the existing grass.
When using a slice seeder on bare soil, be sure to go at
least 2 directions - N to S and E to W. For new seeding use
full rates, for over seeding existing lawns use ½ normal
seeding rates. And if going 2 directions for seeding, use ½
the amount one direction, and the other half for the other
direction.
Feed
the lawn, so with this lawn, you'll apply a starter
fertilizer. If you had not sown new seed, you would use a
high nitrogen fertilizer. This feeding, along with a late
fall feeding, are the 2 most important feedings of the
entire year. VERY IMPORTANT!
Make
sure you keep good moisture in the soil for those new seeds
to germinate and get growing - evenly moist for the next
several weeks. If you have a few weeds, we'll attack them
later (mid to late October), after the new grass is up,
growing and been mowed at least 3 times. The goal right now
is getting the new grass up and growing, as well as getting
the existing grass greened and growing as well. Remember,
what you do to the lawn now really does determine how well
it can perform next year.
[Why is Charlie short for Charles if they both have the same
number of letters?]
From the Garden to the Kitchen
"Hey
Rita what's Cooking?"
Yardboy,
this heat has taken its toll on the pumpkins and watermelon
in my garden. But surprisingly, the zucchini and tomatoes
are still thriving. So my recipe today uses, of course,
those two veggies. If you can't find Gruyere, grated Swiss
works well, too.
Tomatoes
stuffed with Summer Squash and Gruyere
1 pound or of zucchini, either yellow or green or both
1/2 teaspoon or so of salt
6-8 medium tomatoes
Olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
1 large clove garlic, minced
1/2 to 1 cup whipping cream
1/2 (generous) cup grated Gruyere cheese
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese plus extra for sprinkling
2 tablespoons each olive oil and butter
Grate
squash and put in colander. Sprinkle with the salt and let
drain about 5 minutes. With a spoon, push out as much
moisture as you can. Set aside. Cut off tops of tomatoes and
scoop out pulp. Leave a nice thick shell. Sprinkle with a
bit of salt and pepper, brush outside with oil and bake with
cut sides up at 325 for 10 minutes. Invert and let drain.
Meanwhile, saute onion and garlic in the olive oil and
butter until onion is just soft. Stir in squash and cook a
couple of minutes. Stir in cream (start with 1/2 cup) and
add salt and pepper to taste. Cook until cream is absorbed
and the consistency you like. Remove from heat and stir in
cheeses. Put mixture into tomatoes and sprinkle with a bit
more Parmesan. Broil until tops are golden and bubbly.
-Rita
Nader Heikenfeld, CCP / Macy's Regional Culinary
Professional / Herbalist / Author / Local TV and Radio
Cooking Expert / Adjunct Professor U.C. Clermont College /
Community Press Papers / Part time Witchdoctor / Maker of
strange potions /
www.abouteating.com
[Hey Rita - why does it say "shake well" on a bottle of
ketchup, but not on ketchup packets?]
Yardboy's "Plant to Ponder"
We've
been looking at perennials, colors that keep coming back
year after year and especially those that flower late into
the summer. But how about a late flowering perennial vine?
I've got one for you. Now you're probably familiar with
clematis, with its brightly colored large petals. And many
selections will flower off and one during the summer. But
here's one that flowers from mid to late August and well
into September.
It's
Sweet Autumn Clematis, and the name says it all. Sweet
Autumn clematis is an extraordinarily vigorous fast growing
vine that can grow 10-15 feet in one season. It's so fast,
pruning it back to 12 inches above the ground in early
spring just gets it off to a good start, as it will cover a
fence, trellis or arbor by mid season.
Good
deep green foliage, hardy to zone 4, quick grower - but
here's the icing on the cake. Sweet Autumn clematis bears
clouds of fragrant, 1 inch, star shaped white flowers. And
when I say fragrant, the sweet vanilla fragrance from an
established vine is not over powering, but just the most
wonderful sweet scent of spring - in the fall. And after
the flowers fade, they turn into silvery plume like seed
heads which are very attractive for the fall season.
As
with most clematis, give the top plenty of sun and the roots
plenty of cooling shade. They like a cool root system.
Sweet Autumn clematis is a vigorous grower, so be sure to
give it its own fence, trellis, or arbor to grow on. I
love this vine!
[If Mars had earthquakes, would they be called marsquakes?]
A Little
Bit of This, A Little Bit of That
Make
sure you've stopped feeding those roses, those trees and
shrubs, those evergreens and groundcovers, etc, to allow
them time to slow down, stop growing, and begin to 'harden
off' and get ready for the winter season. The only feeding
now should be for lawns, annuals, perennials as needed,
tropical plants if needed, and of course, those container
grown plants. Be sure to still use a 'starter fertilizer'
when planting new trees and shrubs, and you can do your
'fall feeding' of trees and woody plants AFTER they have
started to go or have gone dormant in the fall. It's also
time to stop severe pruning of woody plants, including
roses, again to not promote new growth, and allow the
existing growth to slow down, stop growing, and begin to
'harden off' for the winter. Yes, individual branch
removal, light pruning, deadheading as needed, can still be
done; just don't do the severe pruning now on woody plants,
or pruning that may promote new growth. Feel free to
continue to prune annuals and perennials as needed. -You
will find spring blooming bulbs now available at the garden
stores. Buy early for a good selection, but plant later in
the fall for better growing results. Now is the time for
planting mums, asters, pansies, and all those fall
favorites.
[In the
song "she'll be coming around the mountain", who in the
world is "she"?]
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