2007 'In the Garden' Index

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 Issue #21

 8/1/2007 

Welcome to the first day of August!  Hard to believe we are now rounding third and headed for fall!  Of course, we still have several weeks of warm weather ahead of us, but you know as well as I do that when August gets here, the end of summer seems to show up quicker than ever!   So, make sure you get out and enjoy all the good things you've planted this spring, or over that past years, as many flowering plants are enjoying their great summer colors.  Keep MBWA (manage by walking around) the landscape, and enjoy while you walk.  And if this hot dry weather stays with us, have a drink for yourself in one hand and the garden hose in the other to give a drink to your plants.  Don't tease them; give them a good drink!
 


In This Issue

Weather It's The Weather

What's Bugging You

Questionmark and Mysterian

Success Tip of the Week

From the Garden to the Kitchen

Plant to Ponder

Contact Information

 

 Up Coming Events

Natorp's Wholesale Nursery Outlet Sale
Sept. 14,15,16, 22, 23
BIG SALE!
8601 Snider Rd.
Over 150,000 plants!
visit www.natorp.com
for more info!


 

Quick Links

$10,000 Landscape Makeover

Newsletter Archive

Success Tip Sheets

Landscape Design Kit

Gift Cards

Rita's Recipes

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

Whether It's The Weather
Hello-o-o-o-o-o summer!  Yes, summer temperatures have moved in and yes, it is hot!   And to add to it all, no rain in sight until next week.  Yes, we are still in a drought situation.  Yes, this is tough on plants that have been stressed from the drought, and yes, we're even seeing some plants that had suffered extreme damages with our late cold snap, now losing leaves and dying back more.  This just shows us that there was more tissue damage in some plant's branches than we had expected.  This also reminds us that in many cases, plant damages which occur from weather extremes may not show up until later in the season, or even in years to come.  It's hot outside - stay cool.

What's Bugging You
Again, another week in the Yardboy's yard where bugs have not been an issue - besides that spider hanging out at our back door!  It's a big one, and once again got me this morning as I went out the door to get the trash can!  Man I hate that!  I know it's hanging around somewhere laughing it's butt off watching me do the spider web dance.  Darn spider.

This week, Buggy Joe Boggs (OSU Extension) is reporting continued bagworm feeding, and although they are reaching stages where chemical sprays will no longer be effective, spraying at this stage actually triggers the bagworms to stop feeding on your plants, and start pupating into adults (which do not eat).  So if you are having bagworm problems at this stage, pick off what you can, spray what you can't reach, they stop eating your plants, then next year around mid June, watch for the ones left to hatch out, at which time sprays are very effective in killing bagworms!  Whew, that was a long explanation!    BJB is also reporting Hickory tussock caterpillars eating various tree leaves, blister beetles eating on amaranthus foliage and other various foliages (blister beetles can release a toxic chemical which will cause blisters on your skin, or can make you sick it you eat them - but why would you want to eat a blister beetle?), magnolia serpintine leafminer working on bigleaf magnolias, yucca plant bugs sucking away at the yucca juices which make the foliage turn yellow (and those black spots you see are their little excrement spots!), slime flux / wet wood showing on elms, oaks, maples, mulberry, poplar, willow, apple, birch,and even hemlock, dog vomit fungus appearing on shredded hardwood mulch, corn smut showing up (yes, on corn), raised bird's eye like spots on tomatoes (bacterial spot - also gets on peppers), septoria leaf spot on tomato foliage, chinch bug and billbug damages now showing on bluegrass lawns, rust starting to appear in some lawns, and finally, grubs are now getting large enough to start to show some turf damage in lawns that are under drought stress.  There is still time to apply Imidacloprid, as long as you make sure it is watering in well!

-Catch the Buggy Joe Boggs Report Saturdays at 8:42am on 55KRC The Talk Station.

Stay in touch with the Emerald Ash Borer.  Visit either or both: ashalert.osu.edu     www.emeraldashborer.info

Questionmark and the Mysterians -
Your Questions Answered
"Is it too late to apply the grub preventers to my lawn?"   -NO!  As a matter of fact, we're seeing some grubs now becoming large enough to start to cause damages in stressed or thin lawns.  Imidacloprid applied now and watered in well will still work in helping to control grub populations. 

"Did you ever get a reason why those Endless Summer Hydrangeas we planted 2-3 years ago are not blooming this year?  Great foliage, but no flowers.  I thought they flowered on new growth?"   -Last week, I spoke with some of the growers at Bailey Nursery in Minnesota, where this plant was developed.  The explanation was two fold.  The late warm weather and then sudden drop into cold winter temps definitely wiped out much of the top growth.  Then, as we began the earlier than usual spring warm-up, followed by the sudden extended sever cold snap, not only was the new growth killed out, but so were many of the new branches that had not even started to grow yet from below the ground.  So, as a stressed plant reaction, these hydrangeas have chosen to strictly re-grow, re-root, re-establish, and not flower.  But they are telling me that next year should be like a normal year for flowering.  By the way, in one of their experimental gardens, they had mulched over the base an lower parts of the hydrangea plants with pinebark mulch (similar to winter mulching roses), and they were still covered when the second cold snap happened.  After they were uncovered, they re-grew and are flowering normally.  The base of the plant as well as everything under the soil was protected.  (Remember, they're a zone 4, so they do extra winter protecting!)

On this same token, I also spent time with growers from Conard Pyle, talking about the Knock Out Roses.  One comment (which I have said all along!) was that if Knock Out roses are not cut back to 12 inches or so each spring, or at least every 3 years or so, they can become a cyclic bloomer.  Bloom heavy, stop, bloom some, stop, etc.  We can see this occasionally, but more so in established plants that have been left to grow to 4-5 feet.  By cutting them back in the spring, you are rejuvenating the plant and stimulating much more new growth.  They also mentioned to use this past spring as a reminder about waiting to cut your roses back until early to mid April.

"My neighbor is still planting things in his vegetable garden!  What do you plant this late in the season?"   -Greens!  Cabbage, kale, collards, spinach, lettuce, broccoli, beets, radishes, onions, beans - if it matures in less that 60-75 days or is cold hardy, you can plant it now.  Remember most greens prefer the cooler temps, which they will get mid September thru the rest of the fall season.  Hey, you can even plant potatoes right now if you want!  I doubt you'll find seed potatoes now, so go buy a few organic grown potatoes at the produce store, and use those.  When the foliage gets frosted, harvest a crop of "new potatoes" (not full size).  And yes, these can all be done in containers.

"Can I cut the stems off perennials like Star Gazer lily and Bee Balm after the blossoms are gone?  The Bee Balm has mildew."   -Remove the flower head from the lily about 2 inches below the old head, but leave the foliage until it starts to yellow and brown.  Yes, go ahead and cut back those bee balms and pitch the infested foliage.  They will flush up new growth yet this year!

"What kind of flower or plant would you suggest for my bosses office?  She had a peace lily but it's about shot."   - I love the Peace Lily (spathyphyllum), but my new indestructible indoor plant is the "ZZ Plant" (Zamioculcas zamiifolia - hard to pronounce, easy to grow, thus the name ZZ Plant!).  Trust me, the way to kill this plant is either try growing it in the dark, cold temperatures, or overwatering it.  It tolerates all types of light conditions, and does not like to be over watered.  (And it hates cold temps).  ZZ gets about 3-4 feet tall, bushy plant, extremely shiny leaves all the time, and does flower (mature plants) but not much to look at.  But the plant surely is!  What more could you ask for in a houseplant?  I have one in my office - 21/2 feet tall - wide - water it once a month.  Everyone that dares to come into my office asks right away, "what is that cool plant?"    This should give you a few bonus points with the boss!

"When is the best time to divide a rhubarb clump?"   -Spring or early fall will work, with spring being the best (just as the little eyes start to pop out of the ground).

"When is the best time to dig and divide my iris?"  -Right now.  August thru early September will work.  Make sure you pitch infested or rotten tubers.

"When is a good time to plant turnips?"   -Right now!

"Radishes?"   -Right now!

"Knock Out Roses?"  -Right now!

"Summer blooming perennials?"   -Right now!

"Garden mums?   -Well, you definitely can plant them now, as they are available at the garden stores.  But when you are purchasing garden mums, remember that if they are showing colors now, they will probably last (colors) about 4-5 weeks depending on the weather.  If you want later colors, buy and plant mums with NO colors showing whatsoever - and with tiny buds. 

Success Tip of the Week 
"Leaves of Three Let it Be!"
There aren't many things worse than working in the yard or playing outdoors and coming in contact with poison ivy!  In most cases, you don't even know it until later on when the rash and itching begins.  So let's take a look at how to recognize it, and how to get rid of it.

Recognizing Poison Ivy- "Leaves of three let it be" says it best when trying to identify poison ivy.  Shiny when younger, the leaves grow in groups of 3; the middle being larger than the two on its sides.  New shoots tend to be reddish green in color and droopy, solid green during the season, and turn a brilliant orange to red fall color. The leaf edges may be irregularly toothed, lobed or smooth, and can range from 2 inches to 8-10 inches long.  Poison ivy can be found growing in many different forms - growing lower than the height of a mowed lawn (vining right in the turf), as a low or tall shrub, or as a woody vine growing in or on existing trees and shrubs (the vine attaches with aerial roots that makes a mature vine look like a fuzzy rope).  It is very good at hiding and disguising its look!   Poison ivy flowers in the spring (greenish white clusters) and produces gray-white berries.  It can be found growing along roadways, fence lines, stone walls, woodlands, stream banks, landscape and flower beds, in the turf - just about anywhere, so be cautious.  Remember, all parts of this plant are poisonous!

Reactions to Poison Ivy- The oil in poison ivy ("Urushiol") is found in all parts of the plant and is released when the plant is crushed or bruised.  It is also released into the smoke if the plant is burned, so never ever burn poison ivy, no matter how old and dead the vines or stems may seem.  Wood cutters using chain saws can also inhale urushiol that was volatilized during the cutting process so do be cautious!  If your skin comes in contact with poison ivy, wash immediately with soap and cool water.  Consult a physician if an allergic reaction is severe.  Contrary to popular belief, the oils are not spread by contact with open sores.  But, the tacky poisonous oils can be spread by contact with pets, garden tools, gloves, shoes, golf balls, or anything that comes in contact with the poison ivy plant.  Skin lotions are now available to help protect against urushiol, but even so, still cover up with long sleeves, plastic gloves, regular gloves, etc.  When finished, take off the gloves, then the shirt and other clothes, and the plastic gloves last, so you're never touching any contaminated material.  Pitch this stuff in a bag and throw it away, or if saving the clothes, wash them by themselves.  Don't touch them, and wash your hands with soap and cool water.  Maybe take a shower to be sure.

Controlling Poison Ivy- There are several options for controlling poison ivy in the landscape, but before doing anything, make sure you are protected from the plant touching your skin, and be careful handling the plant and any equipment being used that is exposed to the plant.  1.) Grubbing or hand pulling, especially when there is good moisture in the ground, is very effective.  Be sure to get as many roots as you can.  Again, make sure you're careful handling the plants and its parts.  2.) Vines can be severed at the ground, causing the tops to die.  If regrowth appears at the base, treat with a non selective herbicide like Roundup or Kleenup (vinegar or Espoma's Weed and Grass Killer for natural products).  You may also try treating the vine (without cutting) with VINEX, painted on the stem or vine, killing the tops and roots.  Again, make sure you clean any tools used to cut the vines.   3.) Direct spraying of the foliage with non selective herbicides will work, but may take repeated applications.  Easy to do in open areas, but a bit more challenging in planted areas or in the lawn.  Spot treating the leaves will be needed.  These sprays can only be applied when the plant is in full leaf and actively growing.  There are other sprays for poison ivy control as well - make sure what you use has it listed on the label.   One last note:  Once your poison ivy dies from cutting, pulling, hoeing, spraying, etc, you'll still need to get rid of the poisonous plants and it parts!  Throw it away.  Put it in a plastic trash bag, tie it closed, and then double bag it so your garbage man doesn't get the poison oil.  Remember, dead or alive, that oil is still active in the plant, so be sure to always protect yourself.  Take you time, use skin barrier lotions, then gloves and other protection, and remember, it's on the 'other' protection so be careful when taking it off.
 


From the Garden to the Kitchen
"Hey Rita what's Cooking?"
Yardboy, my grandkids will be spending the night and with this heat, I like to have some healthy popsicles and snacks on hand for them. Here are a couple of favorites, guaranteed to cool the little ones (and the big ones) off!

PINEAPPLE POPSICLES
Process in batches in a food processor or blender until as smooth as you like:

3 cups fresh pineapple chunks, or 1 can, 14.5 oz, chunks packed in juice, not syrup, drained, 1/3 cup milk and a few tablespoons of sugar if it needs sweetened - start with 3 tablespoons and go from there.  Pour into molds or cups, with wooden sticks inserted if necessary.  Freeze several hours.  Makes 8. 

FROZEN GRAPE SKEWERS
Use a flat head toothpick and let the kids skewer 3-4 grapes on each one. Freeze hard uncovered and then put into freezer containers. Let the kids eat these right out of the freezer.

CHOCOLATE NUTTY BANANA POPS
Yardboy, sometimes I'll add several sprigs of banana mint to the melting chocolate to add another layer of banana flavor. Take out the mint before dipping.

Cut bananas in half width wise for easy handling. Dip the bananas in melted chocolate chips, then roll in nuts (if the kids don't like nuts, leave them off). Push a popsicle stick into the end and freeze until hard.

Tips from Rita's kitchen:

  • Fresh pineapple helps keeps bones strong by providing manganese - this helps make collagen, a protein that helps build bone, skin and cartilage. Pineapple also improves digestion and even helps relieve cold symptoms with its high vitamin C content  (Mom used to give us pineapple juice when we had sore throats).

Milk contains calcium and grapes, especially if they're red, contain powerful anti-oxidants.

Save your banana peels (this is actually your tip, Yardboy). Chop up and add to plants for a boost of potassium. 

-Rita Nader Heikenfeld, CCP / Macy's Regional Culinary Professional / Herbalist / Author / Local TV and Radio Cooking Expert / Adjunct Professor U.C. Clermont College / Community Press Papers / Part time Witchdoctor / Maker of strange potions / www.abouteating.com

Yardboy's "Plant to Ponder"
Okay, so you vacationed down south or in areas with growing zones of 6 or higher, and you just loved those crepe myrtle flowering in the summer.  Boy, you wish you could grow one here.  Well guess what?  You can!

  Over the past several years, we are finding varieties of crepe myrtle that are doing fairly well in southern zone 5.  Most of them are dwarf or smaller growing selections, but still, they are crepe myrtle!   Crepe myrtle offer a lot to the landscape - multi-stemmed plant - gray brown bark that begins to exfoliate over time - wonderful summer colors - and believe it or not, great fall colors of oranges reds and yellows!  And don't forget crepe myrtle will do quite well as a container plant!

Here are 3 crepe myrtle that you may want to try:

-Hopi -It's a semi dwarf crepe myrtle, usually reaching 5-10 feet.  Shows good hardiness, good leaf disease resistance, and of course, wonderful crepe paper like pink flowers.

-Dynamite - Again good disease resistance, good hardiness, and simply loaded with cherry red summer flowers.

-Pink Velour -  6-10 feet, hardy and disease resistance, but what's so unique about Pink Velour, is you have 2 great shows of colors.  1.) Dark maroon green foliage which is really unique, and serves as 2.) the perfect background for those absolutely hot pink summer flowers. 

Remember, they love the sun, and flower on new growth.  So enjoy them thru the summer, let them be for the winter, then next mid to late spring (just before they leaf out),  deadhead, cut off the old seed pods, prune as needed, and feed to encourage new growth.  And if it's a tough winter and they happen to die back, clean up and remove the deadwood, they will re-grow, and still flower that same summer on the new growth.  Crepe myrtle - they're not just for the south anymore!

A Little Bit of This, A Little Bit of That
Nothing again this week.  You get off with an easy read!

 

Well, that's it for this week.  Now, do yourself a favor.  If you want to.  I'm not telling you to.  Go out and have the best weekend of your life.  See ya.  RW, the Yardboy.  (30 days and counting)

Catch Natorp's own grown yardboy - Ron Wilson
1.)  "In the Garden with Ron Wilson" - Sat. 6-9am / 55KRC "The Talk Station", as well as  Satellite radio XM 165. (Joe Strecker as the executive producer, Joey the gardening gnome, and the original Joe Pro, and Tony Bender staring as The Big Dog)  Download the show or stream online at 55KRC.com, or by visiting the new website, www.ronwilsononline.com .
2.)  "In the Garden with Ron Wilson" - Sat. 10-12pm / 610 WTVN "Home of the BEST Buckeye Coverage" (Johno - executive producer -Columbus).
3.)  Friday mornings (8:05am) on "The Morning Show" with Brian Thomas and John Phillips on 55KRC.
4.)  Homeworx Team / Gardening tips - Thursday and Saturday mornings on Local 12 WKRC TV.
5.)  Occasional appearances on "Homeworx" with Gary Sullivan / Local 12 /Sunday / 11:30am. 
6.)  Ron is also writing a gardening column for Cincinnati Magazine and Livings Great Magazine.

Questions?
Email: questions@natorp.com
513-398-4769
www.natorp.com