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Here's a little more of the new emailed newsletter look!  Now all you have to do is click on the topics below, or scroll down and read through the entire newsletter.  And yes, we've been able to keep space for a few one-liners or quick jokes, which are at the ends of each topic.  Today we address the Formosan termite email scare (as the famous comedian Lewis Grizzard said, "It's a Ho-axe"), your gardening questions, a few tips for the garden, and a little of this and a little of that.  Buggy Joe will be joining us shortly, as will Rita Heikenfeld, Mrs. N, and lot's more as we go along. 

[Just curious - why doesn't Tarzan have a beard?]

*Whether it's the weather - Plenty of rainfall in the area was actually a blessing!  We were starting to get a little dry out there.  Warmer temperatures moving in will certainly move spring bloomers further along, and in many cases, these beauties are easily 2 weeks ahead of normal scheduled flowering.  But, as we all know, not a darned thing we can do about the weather!  Just take it as it comes, and do your best with it.

[A closed mouth gathers no foot.] 

*What's bugging you? - This is an easy one!  It's the 533 emails I've received over the past 10 days concerning the email warning going around about the dreaded Formosan termite making it's way to our landscapes via bagged mulch made from hurricane debris (blown down trees) out of Louisiana.  Whoever started this has certainly created much to do about what should be nothing!  Trust me, all the entomologists, including Buggy Joe Boggs (being forced out of winter hibernation early), have been all over this thing to check the validity if any.  Bottom line is this: 1.) A quarantine was put into place in Louisiana last year, before Katrina even hit, stopping shipments of wood and debris out of the state.  So, if someone would consider bootlegging bagged debris mulch, it would be illegal and stiff fines and prosecution measures are in place. 2.) If someone bootlegged the debris mulch, the chipping and shredding process before bagging it should kill any of the Formosan termite colonies that may have inhabited the material.  They would also need a viable colony with reproductives included, not just a couple termites, to even attempt to establish themselves.  Won't happen through the mulch processes. 3.) Your chances of moving these termites to your area are more of an issue through used railroad ties, than thru bagged mulch. 4.) And, over the years, the Formosan termite has stayed in the southern states for a reason (yes, they are found in several states, not just Louisiana).  The temperatures and humidity are the main factors.  Not saying they couldn't adapt to our climate, but they would prefer the southern feel!  I could go on, but just do this.  Buy your mulch from a reputable independent garden store like Natorp's, who know their mulch sources, and you'll be fine.  If by chance you would find a colony of termites in your bagged mulch, you wouldn't spread it around, would you?  Of course not.  Seal up the bag and take it back to where you bought it.  And one last note about this email scare.  It mentions Home Depot and Lowes as the source for selling the bad mulch.  When I see something like that come through an email, to me, it puts up a red flag.  I see it as someone trying to discredit the big box stores.  Hey, you know I'm a supporter of the independents, who are the professionals, and any other time I would probably smile about something like that, but let's be real.  Those large firms wouldn't get involved with something like the bootlegged termite infested mulch; would they?

   By the way, the Formosan termite is very interesting and one really serious critter, thus the scare about bringing them here.  Although they mostly feed on wood, they will eat cardboard and paper, as well as have been known to chew through foam insulation boards, thin lead and copper sheeting, plaster, and some plastics.  Asphalt has also been added to this list. Yes, pretty scary little fellers!

[There are two theories about arguing with women.  Neither one works.] 

*Question mark and the Mysterians - Here are a few gardening questions from this week's emailed news bag:

"Just in case, how would I know the difference between a termite and an ant?"   -Good question!  Termites have straight antennae, two pairs of wings about the same size and shape, broad waist (like mine is!), and short legs.  Ants have elbowed antennae, two pairs of wings with the rear wings smaller than the front wings, a narrow waist (not at all like mine!), and longer legs.  If you discover termites, don't try to control them yourself, call in the professionals.

"Every year my Columbine get leaf miners.  What can I do to get rid of it?"   -This is a very common problem with Columbine and really is more aesthetic than a problem to the plant.  You can try a systemic like Bayer's Tree and Shrub Insect Control (apply early spring), but many folks will simply cut off the infested foliage after the plants are finished flowering, and let them regrow the rest of the season.

"When should I prune back my roses?"   -Although I see many gardeners out already cutting back roses, my experiences along with the advice from the rose doctor himself, Dr. Pottschmidt, have been to wait until late March at the earliest, early to mid April.  Sure they may have already started to leaf out, but just wait.  Pruning encourages new growth, and pruning a bit later, gets you closer to warmer weather and less chance of freeze damages to that new foliage.

"Some of my over-wintering container plants are starting to bud.  What should I do?"   -Move them outside at this stage to let them come back to life just as the ones outside are doing.  Garages will be getting too warm as we go along for plants to stay dormant and will pop out early.  If the weather makes a sudden change to really cold, you'll have to move them back in.

"Should I be putting down pre emergents yet on the lawn and landscape beds?"   -Anytime from here forward will do.  Just remember that most weed seeds will not germinate until the soil and air temperatures reach consistently 50-55 degrees.  By the time the forsythia are finished flowering, you should have your pre emergents in place.

"What's that golden rule you keep saying about pruning flowering trees and shrubs?"   -The golden rule, for the most part, is this: If it flowers in the spring, prune it after it flowers.  If it flowers in the summer (after June 1st), prune it in the spring.  There are exceptions, but this is a good rule to follow to make sure you see flowers from your plants.  If the flowers aren't a concern, feel free to prune in the spring!

[It's always darkest before the dawn.  So if you're going to steal your neighbor's newspaper, that's the time to do it.] 

This week's Success Tip for you garden - Tips for pruning 'Hydrangeas':  With the increased interest in Hydrangeas, one of the most asked questions we get is when to prune them, so that it will not affect next years flowers, and it can get very confusing because of the different varieties available, as well as different opinions and success stories from different growers!  Now, many hydrangeas don't actually 'require' pruning; maybe only in the younger years to help form a nice plant structure (especially with Oakleaf).  In many cases, pruning is only for removal of spent flowers.  For the most part, hydrangeas can be pruned, as normal flowering shrubs whenever needed.  It's just that pruning at the 'wrong' time could eliminate or reduce next years flowers.  So, based on several grower's input and personal trial and errors, here are a few 'collected' tips on pruning several varieties of hydrangeas,'if' you're trying to save next years flowers:

Hydrangea arborescens 'Annabelle' ('Grandiflora' and 'Sterile' also very common)- typically a June - August bloomer.  These flower on the ends of current season's wood, so to prune the plant, cut back in the spring.  Probably best to remove spent flowers (as they have little ornamental value) at the early brown stage.  'Annabelle' flowers can be very effective all summer long.

Hydrangea paniculata 'Grandiflora' (also called 'PeeGee','Burgundy Lace', 'Tardiva', 'Limelight'and 'Unique' also very common) - typically flowering mid-summer (white to pink flowers / green for Limelight) into September - pruning would be the same as arborescens.

Hydrangea macrophylla 'Nikko Blue' ('Glowing Embers', 'Silver Variegated', and 'Mariessi' are just a few of the several common varieties)  This group of Hydrangeas include cultivars of Hortensias, Lacecaps, and Teller Series - Typically mid-summer bloomers (some turning blue if acidic soils, pink if alkaline soils) - Pruning of this group gets a little trickier.  For most varieties, flower buds are formed on the previous year's growth.  So, pruning after flowering is recommended (dead head).  But, some growers suggest that if the flowers are left on the plant over the winter, and then removed in the spring (just above the terminal bud, just below the flower head), this may help to protect the plant over the winter.  These hydrangeas are known for 'not' flowering or inconsistent flowering, due to the fact that the flower buds (or stems with the flower buds) are often damaged over the winter.  You will have wonderful foliage and a nice looking shrub, but very few or no flowers, thanks to winter damage (many listed for zones 6-9, and not too hardy for 5 unless very protected).  If the stems die over the winter, you wind up cutting them back to remove dead stems, which may have had the buds for flowers (which were dead anyway).  Cut back dead stems to healthy buds.  I have know some gardeners who will build a small cage around these hydrangeas with chicken wire, and fill it with finely ground leaves very late in the winter.  This helps to protect the entire plant from winter damages.  [Note: a late freeze in the spring can also cause damage to the flower buds that have successfully over-wintered.]

NEW VARIETIES!  With some of the newer macrophylla varieties, they are grown to be much hardier ('All Summer Beauty', 'Endless Summer', Blushing Bride', 'Big Daddy', etc. are some of the newer ones) and flower on new growth, and not dependent of over wintering flower buds.  'Endless Summer' goes one step further and will flower on old wood and new growth!  So it doesn't matter if you prune at the wrong time, or it dies back in the winter, you'll still get summer flowers.

Hydrangea quercifolia 'Snow Queen', 'Pee Wee' (Oakleaf) - typically flowers late May - June, but persists all season.  Although listed to zone 5, this one's flower buds 'can' suffer winter damage as well.  If the terminal buds are lost during the winter, little or no flowers will be produced.  So, plant it for the foliage, and consider the flowers a bonus.  If pruning is needed, prune after flowering.  Being the coarseness of the plant, prune to encourage proper framework early in the plant's life, then worry about pruning times for flowering later on.  If these get leggy and require severe pruning, they will respond quite nicely.  [Note: a late freeze in the spring can also cause damage to flower buds that have successfully over wintered.]

Hydrangea anomla / petiolaris 'Climbing Hydrangea'- this vining Hydrangea can be used on walls or as a groundcover.  Usually slow to establish.  Typically flowers June / early July (very effective!).  Generally pruned as needed in late winter / early spring, and to remove dead flowers. 

Successful pruning of hydrangeas for flower production can be a series or trial and errors.  It's amazing how different gardeners have different opinions on pruning hydrangeas!  If you're still unsure, just follow the basics; simply deadhead (remove the spent flowers only), prune out any deadwood in the spring, and see what happens.  Keep notes, so you can share your hydrangea pruning success stories!                                

Hydrangea tips:

-Most will do best in morning sun / afternoon shade, or filtered shade, especially for flowering.  Some will perform in full sun, given good soil moisture (which hydrangeas enjoy - well drained, loamy soils, but good moisture).

-Plant your hydrangeas using the same soil from the hole, but amending with compost, pine soil conditioner, etc.  Be sure to mulch over the root system of the hydrangeas to keep those roots cool, help preserve good soil moisture, and add organic matter back to the soil.  This also helps to lower the pH.

-It is best to 'transplant' hydrangeas during the dormant season.  New plantings can be done anytime of the year.

-Colors of hydrangea flowers (whites, whites to pinks, pinks, blues, reds, etc.) will range in intensity due to many reasons (variety, weather conditions, plant's health, etc.).  For those hydrangeas who flower pink or blue, remember that pink is from alkaline soils, blue is from acidic soils.  Lightly sprinkling lime around the plant several times a year will increase alkalinity, and reduce availability of aluminum (which causes blue flowers).  Try to get the pH in the higher 6 range.  Adding aluminum sulfate, soil sulfur, cottonseed meal, coffee grounds, etc., throughout the season will increase the soil acidity, lowering the pH to the mid to low 5 range, releasing the existing aluminum in the soil, which is needed for the blue coloring.  Adding aluminum sulfate helps lower pH and adds aluminum, but be careful using it.  Be sure to water well in advance of adding aluminum sulfate.  Also, for blue flowers, try to choose a fertilizer lower in phosphorus, and higher in potassium. 

-Besides adding soil pH adjusters / adding aluminum if needed, a late spring feeding with an all-purpose fertilizer works fine for most hydrangeas, or by adding a slow release fertilizer in the spring such as Osmocote.  Do not over feed your hydrangeas, and make sure they have good even moisture.

[Duct tape is like 'The Force'.  It has a light side and a dark side, and it holds the universe together.] 

*From the Garden to the Kitchen / Hey Rita, what's cooking? - Rita will be joining us very shortly, with great new tips and recipes for 2006! 

*Yardboy's plant to ponder - Are you familair with the cool temperature loving annual, Schizanthus?  It's commonly known as 'The poor man's orchid', with it's wonderful serrated cutleaf foliage, and those outstanding orchid like flowers, which appear during the cooler times of the growing season.  Flowers in the spring through early summer, mostly foliage during the summer, and then may reflower as the temps cool down in the fall.  Great for containers, loves the sun but will grow in partial sun, and gets about 15-18 inches tall and wide!  Now available at Natorp's Garden Stores.

[Generally speaking, you aren't learning much when your lips are moving.] 

A little bit of this and a little bit of that - Pace yourself going into the late winter and spring season.  Now's a great time for edging beds, raking and fluffing up the existing mulch, Preening (did you know Preen now has Organic Preen?), getting your container gardens ready for spring greens, peas, potatoes, etc., dormant spraying with horticultural oils or lime sulfur as needed, doing light pruning to clean up from the winter, pruning grapes and fruit trees, starting seeds indoors (check how long it takes from germination to transplanting size and count backwards from May 15 for starting times), clean the bird feeders (10% bleach, 90% water, clean, rinse, rinse, dry and refill), get your plans in place for planting this season, call Natorp's Landscape for an appointment to add to, re-do, or upgrade your landscape, visit the garden stores to see what's new, and come see us at the 5/3 Bank Cincinnati Home and Garden Show!

[Man with one chopstick go hungry.]

Classes, Seminars, and upcoming Special Events - We'll keep you posted with upcoming classes and events throughout the year.

 Okay, that's it for this newsletter.  Hope you enjoy our new format.  If you have suggestions, let me know.  It' still in the construction phase!  Now, do yourself a favor.  Go out and have the best weekend of your life.  See ya.  RW, the Yardboy.

[Catch Natorp's own grown yardboy Ron Wilson every Saturday, 6-9am, 'In the Garden' on 55KRC Thee Talk Station (home of the Big Dog Tony Bender and Joe "without Joe this show wouldn't go" Strecker) , every Friday morning 8:06am on 'The Morning Show' with Jerry Thomas and Craig Kopp (55KRC), every Thursday and Saturday morning on Local 12 -WKRC Homeworx Team, occasional appearances on 'Homeworx' (Sundays at 11:30am Local 12), and read his monthly column in your local Community Press Papers.]