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Week 19 (7/6/06) 

Hope you had a wonderful 4th!  Now we cruise into the summer season.  As we work in the yards and gardens during the heat of the summer, be sure to take care of yourself.  Work during the cooler hours of the day, pace yourself, wear a hat and protect your skin, and drink plenty of fluids.  (No, that doesn't include your favorite adult beverage!  Save that for the evening.)  NOTE:  There will not be a newsletter next week!  Wow, no newsletter next week - can you handle it?  I'm not sure that I can.

[Words that soak into your ears are whispered, not yelled.]

*Whether it's the weather - Spotty showers continue to pass through our area.  For the most past, it's still dry, so monitor soil moisture and water as needed.  Looks like the heavy showers in the Mid-Atlantic and Northeast last week (12 inches in some areas) caused serious property damages, including toppling over a century old Elm tree at the White House (fell during one of the heavy storms moving through).  This tree is actually pictured on the backs of the $20 bills, to the right side of the White House portrait.

[When you wallow with pigs, expect to get dirty.]

*What's bugging you? - Nothing bugging me this week except a few Japanese beetles on my Harry Lauder's Walking Stick (between chasing them away with a strong stream of water and watching the blue jays and cardinals feast on a few I haven't had much damage), a few bagworms here and there, and lot's of mushrooms popping up.  Buggy Joe Boggs (OSU Extension) is reporting dodder showing up on ornamental plants (parasitic vine that needs to be removed before it goes to seed), more and more cases of Japanese beetles and bagworms being reported, oak leaves with curled ridges (gall midges), gall mites, lower reports of apple scab, frog eyed leaf spot, and fireblight than usual, and to let everyone know its too late to treat for iris borers, as they have reached the rhizomes at this stage.  It all becomes hunting them down and crushing them, or by excavating them from or simply pitching infested rhizomes.  -Catch the 'Buggy Joe Boggs Report' Saturdays at 8:42am on 55KRC radio.

[Man who eat many prunes get good run for money.]

*Question mark and the Mysterians - Here are a few gardening questions from this weeks emailed news bag:

"You mentioned the name of the millet planted at Homerama as "Royal Burgundy", but I cannot find any information on it.  Are you sure that's the name?"   -Well, that's what I was told, but after further investigation, I found that it's actually called "Purple Majesty".  Sorry, my informant must have been thinking about another plant!  Purple Majesty Millet - if you can't find any now, you will see it again for the fall plantings!

"I am growing Marglobe tomatoes and have many on the vine, but several have turned black on the bottom and even rotting.  Any suggestions?"   -Yes!  No matter which tomato you're growing, this can be a very common problem.  It's called "Blossom End Rot".  Here's what to do: 

Controlling Blossom End-Rot: Tomatoes are the number one vegetable grown in gardens and container gardens.  And this time of the year, although there are many tomato questions, the most common one being this.  It’s a very common problem on tomatoes (can also happen on peppers, squash, melons, eggplant, etc), and it’s called Blossom End Rot.  It can be the result of many factors, including water stress (uneven soil moisture available to the plant), plants trying to become rooted / established and yet produce new growth and fruit at the same time, high feedings of Nitrogen, and a lack of calcium in the fruit.  Again, this problem usually occurs early in the season, and seems to taper off as the season progresses.  It is a physical problem, not a disease, so the ripened fruits can still be eaten (slice off the black spot) if desired.     So, how do you combat Blossom End Rot right now?  The first and most important step is to try and regulate your watering, so the plant is receiving good even soil moisture at all times.  Foliage gets the water first, fruit gets it second.  So, increased timely waterings, as well as mulching tomatoes in the garden to help retain soil moisture will help.  This is the most important first step in reducing Blossom End Rot.    The next step is to actually supplement the lack of calcium in the soil.  This can be achieved several ways, including adding lime or gypsum to the soil around the tomato plant, or even soaking crushed eggs shells in water and using that water to help water the tomatoes.  Blossom End Rot may be more of a problem in containers, as many potting mixes do not contain calcium, or very little, and sometimes are harder to keep evenly moist.  There are Blossom End Rot sprays, but really aren’t recommended, as they are slow to be absorbed, and you’re better of correcting the overall situation causing the problem.     Lastly, make sure you’re not over feeding the plants, especially with a high nitrogen fertilizer.  Excessive growth, stimulated by the high Nitrogen, increases foliage production, which increases the need for water and calcium to the leaves, and results in the lack of moisture and calcium to the fruits.  Use an all-purpose garden food, which is lower in N and higher in Potassium and phosphorus, as well as other needed nutrients.     This very common tomato problem typically becomes less of a problem as the season progresses.  Do what we’ve recommended, be patient, and the Blossom end rot should go away on your future fruits.  Then your tomatoes will be just right for the squirrels to take a bite out of them!   Note:  Cold temperatures (soil and air) will also affect the flow of calcium to the plant and fruit.  Another good reason to not plant tomatoes too early in the season!)

“Our oak tree is suddenly dripping a very foul smelling fluid, which is running down the side of the tree.  What is this and how can I save my tree?”   -What you and your tree are experiencing, is called “slime flux” or “wet wood”.  It’s a bacterial disease inside the tree, which actually begins to ferment, build up pressure, and then looks for a place to escape, which is usually a crack in the branch unions, a pruning wound, or other injured areas.  The oozing of the sap is called Fluxing, and as you can see, this one is fluxing from where a branch was once removed.  Nothing you can do about it, nothing you can do to stop it, and it doesn’t kill the tree, it just looks and smells really bad.

“My pine trees are infested with borers.  There are almost perfect lines of borer holes all up and down the trunk.  What can I do to save my pines?”   -Guess what?  Those perfect lines of holes are not from borers, but are from sapsuckers!  There are at least 7 species of woodpeckers that do this - basically they’re making holes in the bark deep enough for sap to flow, and then feed on the sap, a little inner bark, and an occasional bug or two.  The sapsucker holes are arranged in horizontal rings, or bands, or aligned in vertical rows.  In most cases, these holes do not present serious problems to trees, but trees in a migratory path, fed upon twice annually, can be damaged enough to cause stress and other infestations, including bores and diseases.  Problem is, there’s nothing you can to stop those sapsuckers, and you really wouldn’t want to!

"Our butterfly bush flowers were absolutely beautiful, but have suddenly turned brown and there are no more new flowers.  I thought they bloomed all year!"   -They do.  They just need a little deadheading and about 2 weeks of new growth.  Remember the flowers are born on new growth.  All the spring new growth had all those wonderful flowers.  But at this stage, we need to get rid of those flowers and encourage new growth for more new flowers.  Get rid of the old flowers, give it a couple weeks, and watch for the next flurry of flowers.  By the way, if you didn't get rid of the old flowers, they will still send out some new growth for a few new flowers, but not like what will happen after you deadhead them.  New growth, new flowers on butterfly bushes.

"Should peonies be deadheaded?  I've never done it before."  -Yes, they should.  Again, it makes for a cleaner appearance, removes dead plant material which can harbor diseases and insects, and stops the plant from putting its energy into trying to make seeds, and puts the energy into making the peony plants nicer and stronger for next year.

“My grapes have suddenly started turning black and shriveling.  And the leaves are getting spotty.  What can I do to save my grapes?”   -This is a very common grape problem called ‘Black Rot’.  Not only does it affect the fruit, it also affects the leaves and the stems.  The infections begin at bloom time and can occur until the fruit is naturally resistant, and is spread by wind and rain.  Nothing you can do now, besides eliminate all the infected fruit, leaves, and stems.  Make sure the vines are cleaned from all debris at the end of the season.  Make sure your grapes have full sun, and are in an airy location, with good weed control underneath.  And a good fungicidal spray program is needed, beginning with a dormant spray, and then weekly spraying of a labeled fungicide like Mancozeb from bud break to semi maturity of the fruit.  This is a must to control Black Rot on grapes.

"I need help with our pond.  Who do you recommend we call?"  -Call The Pond Doctors, for ponds of ALL sizes.  812-623-2253.   (or visit www.theponddoctors.com)

[Man who stand on toilet is high on pot.]

This week's Success Tip for your garden - Now that we’re in the summer months, watering the lawn becomes very a very important part of helping to keep it looking good.  But it’s how you water the lawn that becomes the most important part of the process.  First, the type of sprinkler you use really depends on personal preference and size of the yard.  And there are many styles to choose from. Here are the 3 most popular:

–        Stationary sprinklers spray water through a pattern of holes in the sprinkler, and the size, shape, pattern and water pressure determine the area covered.  These are usually best for smaller lawns, with their variety of spray patterns, and are quick to water each area.  

–        Oscillating sprinklers spray multiple streams of water from a curved tube that ‘oscillates’ back and forth in a rectangular pattern.  These are usually dependent on good water pressure, can cover fairly large areas, and can be adjusted to full sweeps, left, right, or center.

–         Pulsating or Impulse sprinklers are probably considered the most efficient and versatile.  They can operate on low pressure, and discharge more water in a given time and usually cover a greater area than other sprinklers.  And with the spray close to the ground, it is more wind resistant.

   Second, how often you use your sprinklers is very important.  In most cases, lawns would like 1 inch of rainfall every 7-10 days.  And if Mother Nature doesn’t provide it, then you need to supplement.  And when you do, do it all at one time, not a little every 2-3 days.  Water less frequently, but deep and thoroughly.   This will encourage deeper root systems for your lawn, making them less susceptible to drought situations.  To check how much rainfall your lawn has gotten each week, simply check your rain gauge.  And if you don’t have one, get one!  By the way, the best time to water your lawn is between 5 and 9 in the morning.

If you're looking for the best way to deep water your larger trees and shrubs, don't forget using a Ross Root Feeder.  Originally designed as a fertilizing tool (injecting water soluble fertilizers into the soil), this is a wonderful tool for watering (just don't use the fertilizers!).  And don't think your larger trees and shrubs don't need watering during periods of drought.  Just because they're more matured and mature-rooted doesn't mean anything.  They still need the water to survive.  And the Ross Root feeder is one of the best ways to do it.

[Transvestite - guy who likes to eat, drink, and be Mary.]

*From the Garden to the Kitchen / Hey Rita, what's cooking? - Yardboy, my fennel, both the Florence (that’s the kind with the big white bulb) and my bronze (which has a long tap root similar to a carrot) are growing well enough to harvest some leaves from them. I’m sharing an unusual, yet really delicious, recipe for pork tenderloin using these herbs. And did you know that the Shakers chewed fennel seeds during long religious ceremonies? Fennel seeds are not only great for your digestion, they help curb the appetite and keep you “up”.  Thus the reason the adults munched on them! What about the little ones, though?  Yardboy, the Shakers had them chew dill seeds, which, because they contain calcium, helped calm fidgety children down.  Fennel is also good with any kind of seafood.

ARISTA - You'll need: 2 pounds pork tenderloin, or 2 one pound tenderloins, 2-3 teaspoons minced garlic, 1-1/2 teaspoons ground fennel seeds, or about 1/2  cup fresh fennel leaves, minced, Olive oil, Several parsley sprigs, minced (opt), Sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste.   Trim tenderloins and set aside.  Preheat oven to 425.  Mix garlic and fennel together.  Add enough olive oil to make a paste.  Stir in parsley.  Rub this paste all over tenderloins, and if you have any left, make tiny slits in tenderloin and insert rest of paste in there.  Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper.  Roast for 20 minutes or until internal temperature reads 160.  Don’t overcook.

 RITA’S HERBES DE PROVENCE (Good with lamb, grains, tomatoes, pork, beef and in seafood recipes)  Blend together and store in cool, dry place away from light: 1/4 cup dried thyme leaves, not powdered, 2 tablespoons dried marjoram or 1 tablespoon oregano, 1 tablespoon dried rosemary, minced, 1 tablespoon dried savory leaves, not powdered savory, 2 teaspoons dried lavender flowers, 1 teaspoon fennel seeds, 1 dried bay leaf, crumbled.

-Rita Nader Heikenfeld, CCP / Macy’s Regional Culinary Professional / Herbalist / Author / Local TV and Radio Cooking Expert / Adjunct Professor U.C. Clermont College / Community Press Papers /  [life@communitypress.com attn: Rita or www.abouteating.com]

[My mind works like lightning.  One brilliant flash and its gone.]

*Yardboy's plant to ponder - This week, the plant to ponder is a perennial plant, that's probably not very well known in the perennial garden.  It's "Cimicifuga" or commonly known as "Bugbane".  Now this is a shade to partial shade lover, likes loamy evenly moist soils, and will need an extra drink or two during drought periods.  Bugbane has ferny like foliage, with late summer creamy white flowers on graceful stalks (which attract butterflies and can be cut), and is considered a bold perennial for the shadier garden, reaching about 3-5 feet tall.  One in particular that I like is 'Brunette', with purplish-bronze ferny foliage, that actually turns yellow in the fall.  Hardy to zone 4, but again, prefers even moisture and will need an extra drink during any drought spells.

[A closed mouth gathers no foot.]

A little bit of this and a little bit of that - State Officials Remind Citizens To Keep Ash Tree Storm Debris In Emerald Ash Borer Quarantined Areas!  Citizens who are cleaning up outdoor storm damage are asked to abide by the EAB quarantines in northwest and central Ohio, while disposing of ash tree damage.  These quarantines have been aimed at stopping the spread of EAB (ash tree killing insect), by making it illegal to move ash wood out of 14 Ohio counties.  The fine for doing this is $4,000.  Quarantines also make it illegal to move ash wood from Michigan and seven infested counties in Indiana into Ohio.  For more information visit www.emeraldashborer.info, www.ohioagriculture.gov/eab, or call 1-888-OHIO-EAB.  (The Emerald Ash Borer is a non native insect from Asia, capable of wiping out all ash species in North America, and can be spread through firewood and ash tree materials.  It was first discovered in Michigan.)

Researchers at Cornell University are evaluating 70 ornamental landscape plants for their 'weed-suppressing' qualities and their suitability for roadside plantings.  These plants, once established, would help reduce herbicide applications.  Plants with good weed-suppressive characteristics include Liriope s. 'Majestic', Phlox s. 'Emerald Blue', Rudbeckia f. 'Goldsturm', Carex glauca, Nepeta x f. 'Walker's Low', and Solidago s. 'Golden Fleece'.

The World Federation of Rose Societies voted 'Eden Climber' as the World's Favorite Rose (introduced in 1987 by Conard Pyle Co.).  Eden Climber features a blend of pastel pinks, creams, and yellows, coupled with deep green foliage.  It's a bushy vigorous climber, petal count is 40-50, and has a slight fragrance.

[If it's true we're here to help others, then what exactly are the others here for?]

Classes, Seminars, and upcoming Special Events - Watch Gary Sullivan's "HomewoRx" to see the $10,000 Natorp Landscape Makeover.  On Sunday, July 9, the project gets started.  On Sunday, July 16, we follow up with a look at the project 'halfway through', and on August 6, you'll see the final results!  That's "HomewoRx", Sundays 11:30am, on Local 12.  For more info on the project, visit www.wkrc.com, or www.natorp.com.

Meyer Aquascapes is sponsoring a Water Garden Tour in Cincinnati /Northern Kentucky on July 22 and 23.  Tickets are $10.  There will be 33 ponds, some with waterfalls and streams, and all very nicely landscaped.  Tickets are available through Boone County Extension, by calling (859) 586-6101, or by calling (513) 941-8500.  This is a great tour for pond enthusiasts, pond owner wanna-be's, gardeners, or just to enjoy other folks ponds and gardens!

July 8.  Edible Flowers at the Civic Garden Center, 10 am - Noon.  Instructor Vickie Ciotti, Civic Garden Center Executive Director will take your taste buds on an adventure.  Learn about edible flowers, and how to use them in decorating and enhancing dishes.  $10/person, reservation is appreciated 513/221-0981, Ext. 18.

July 12. Lunch and Learn Series: Daylilies at the Civic Garden Center, Noon - 1pm.  Master Gardener and Daylily aficionado John Duke, will share information about the different varieties, how to care for them and then lead a walk of the grounds which contain an impressive collection.  Free, but a reservation is appreciated, 513/221-0981.

July 13.  25th Anniversary Neighborhood Gardens Tour beginning at the Civic Garden Center, 5:30 pm – 8:30 pm.  Board busses to visit the newly renovated Walnut Hills Garden, help the Madisonville Garden celebrate its 20th Anniversary and see some unique features of the East End Veterans Memorial Garden. $10/person, reservations necessary by July 6 to 513/221-0981, Ext. 18.

July 19. Hydrangea Family at the Civic Garden Center, 6 – 8 pm.  Instructor, Michele Williams, Civic Garden Center Horticulturist will speak about how to distinguish amongst the cultivated varieties, explore the biology of hydrangeas, and take some time to enjoy the hydrangeas on the CGC grounds. Bring a good hand lens to help with identifications.  $10/person.  Reservations appreciated, 513/221-0981, Ext. 18.

Kinkead Ridge Estate Winery will be doing another vineyard tour this year (weather permitting) at Kinkead Ridge Vineyard, 4288 Kinkead Road, Ripley Ohio, on September 2 and 4.  The winery (904 Hamburg Street 937-392-6077) is open Saturdays from 11am-5pm until Labor Day. (www.kinkeadridge.com)  This is an award winning winery!

Okay, that's it for this week.  Remember, no newsletter next week.  I will be out of the office all week.  Now, do yourself a favor.  Go out and have the best 'next 2 weekends' of your life!  See ya.  RW, the Yardboy.

[Catch Natorp's own grown yardboy Ron Wilson during the week:  -55KRC The Talk Station 'In the Garden with Ron Wilson' every Saturday from 6-9am  - Satellite Radio / XM TalkRadio 165 every Saturday from 6-9am  -610 WTVN (Columbus) every Saturday from 10-12pm  -Friday mornings at 8:06am on 55KRC's 'The Morning Show' with Jerry Thomas and Craig Kopp  -Thursday and Saturday mornings on Local 12 News (WKRC) Homeworx Team   -Garden expert for 'HomewoRx' with Gary Sullivan on Local 12, Sunday at 11:30am.  Be sure to listen to 55KRC The Talk Station for the best in talk radio! (Home of programming director Tony 'Big Dog' Bender, and executive producer Joe 'the original Joe Pro, who without Joe, the show just wouldn't go' Strecker.)

["What disease did cured ham actually have?"  -point to ponder from the Big Dog.]