Week 19
(7/6/06)
Hope you had a wonderful 4th! Now we cruise into the summer season.
As we work in the yards and gardens during the heat of the summer, be
sure to take care of yourself. Work during the cooler hours of the
day, pace yourself, wear a hat and protect your skin, and drink plenty
of fluids. (No, that doesn't include your favorite adult beverage!
Save that for the evening.) NOTE: There will not be a newsletter
next week! Wow, no newsletter next week - can you handle it? I'm
not sure that I can.
[Words that soak
into your ears are whispered, not yelled.]
*Whether it's the weather
- Spotty showers
continue to pass through our area. For the most past, it's still dry,
so monitor soil moisture and water as needed. Looks like the heavy
showers in the Mid-Atlantic and Northeast last week (12 inches in some
areas) caused serious property damages, including toppling over a
century old Elm tree at the White House (fell during one of the heavy
storms moving through). This tree is actually pictured on the backs
of the $20 bills, to the right side of the White House portrait.
[When you wallow
with pigs, expect to get dirty.]
*What's bugging you?
- Nothing bugging me this week except a few Japanese beetles on my
Harry Lauder's Walking Stick (between chasing them away with a strong
stream of water and watching the blue jays and cardinals feast on a
few I haven't had much damage), a few bagworms here and there, and
lot's of mushrooms popping up. Buggy Joe Boggs (OSU Extension) is
reporting dodder showing up on ornamental plants (parasitic vine that
needs to be removed before it goes to seed), more and more cases of
Japanese beetles and bagworms being reported, oak leaves with curled
ridges (gall midges), gall mites, lower reports of apple scab, frog
eyed leaf spot, and fireblight than usual, and to let everyone know
its too late to treat for iris borers, as they have reached the
rhizomes at this stage. It all becomes hunting them down and crushing
them, or by excavating them from or simply pitching infested
rhizomes. -Catch the 'Buggy Joe Boggs Report' Saturdays at
8:42am
on 55KRC radio.
[Man who eat
many prunes get good run for money.]
*Question mark and the Mysterians
- Here are a few gardening questions from this weeks emailed news bag:
"You mentioned
the name of the millet planted at Homerama as "Royal Burgundy", but I
cannot find any information on it. Are you sure that's the name?"
-Well, that's what I was told, but after further investigation, I
found that it's actually called "Purple Majesty". Sorry, my informant
must have been thinking about another plant! Purple Majesty Millet -
if you can't find any now, you will see it again for the fall
plantings!
"I am growing
Marglobe tomatoes and have many on the vine, but several have turned
black on the bottom and even rotting. Any suggestions?" -Yes! No
matter which tomato you're growing, this can be a very common
problem. It's called "Blossom End Rot". Here's what to do:
Controlling
Blossom End-Rot:
Tomatoes are the
number one vegetable grown in gardens and container gardens. And this
time of the year, although there are many tomato questions, the most
common one being this. It’s a very common problem on tomatoes (can
also happen on peppers, squash, melons, eggplant, etc), and it’s
called Blossom End Rot. It can be the result of many factors,
including water stress (uneven soil moisture available to the plant),
plants trying to become rooted / established and yet produce new
growth and fruit at the same time, high feedings of Nitrogen, and a
lack of calcium in the fruit. Again, this problem usually occurs
early in the season, and seems to taper off as the season progresses.
It is a physical problem, not a disease, so the ripened fruits can
still be eaten (slice off the black spot) if desired. So, how do
you combat Blossom End Rot right now? The first and most important
step is to try and regulate your watering, so the plant is receiving
good even soil moisture at all times. Foliage gets the water first,
fruit gets it second. So, increased timely waterings, as well as
mulching tomatoes in the garden to help retain soil moisture will
help. This is the most important first step in reducing Blossom End
Rot. The next step is to actually supplement the lack of calcium in
the soil. This can be achieved several ways, including adding lime or
gypsum to the soil around the tomato plant, or even soaking crushed
eggs shells in water and using that water to help water the tomatoes.
Blossom End Rot may be more of a problem in containers, as many
potting mixes do not contain calcium, or very little, and sometimes
are harder to keep evenly moist. There are Blossom End Rot sprays,
but really aren’t recommended, as they are slow to be absorbed, and
you’re better of correcting the overall situation causing the
problem. Lastly, make sure you’re not over feeding the plants,
especially with a high nitrogen fertilizer. Excessive growth,
stimulated by the high Nitrogen, increases foliage production, which
increases the need for water and calcium to the leaves, and results in
the lack of moisture and calcium to the fruits. Use an all-purpose
garden food, which is lower in N and higher in Potassium and
phosphorus, as well as other needed nutrients. This very common
tomato problem typically becomes less of a problem as the season
progresses. Do what we’ve recommended, be patient, and the Blossom
end rot should go away on your future fruits. Then your tomatoes will
be just right for the squirrels to take a bite out of them! Note:
Cold temperatures (soil and air) will also affect the flow of calcium
to the plant and fruit. Another good reason to not plant tomatoes too
early in the season!)
“Our oak tree is
suddenly dripping a very foul smelling fluid, which is running down
the side of the tree. What is this and how can I save my tree?”
-What you and your tree are experiencing, is called “slime flux” or
“wet wood”. It’s a bacterial disease inside the tree, which actually
begins to ferment, build up pressure, and then looks for a place to
escape, which is usually a crack in the branch unions, a pruning
wound, or other injured areas. The oozing of the sap is called
Fluxing, and as you can see, this one is fluxing from where a branch
was once removed. Nothing you can do about it, nothing you can do to
stop it, and it doesn’t kill the tree, it just looks and smells really
bad.
“My pine trees are
infested with borers. There are almost perfect lines of borer holes
all up and down the trunk. What can I do to save my pines?” -Guess
what? Those perfect lines of holes are not from borers, but are from
sapsuckers! There are at least 7 species of woodpeckers that do this
- basically they’re making holes in the bark deep enough for sap to
flow, and then feed on the sap, a little inner bark, and an occasional
bug or two. The sapsucker holes are arranged in horizontal rings, or
bands, or aligned in vertical rows. In most cases, these holes do not
present serious problems to trees, but trees in a migratory path, fed
upon twice annually, can be damaged enough to cause stress and other
infestations, including bores and diseases. Problem is, there’s
nothing you can to stop those sapsuckers, and you really wouldn’t want
to!
"Our butterfly
bush flowers were absolutely beautiful, but have suddenly turned brown
and there are no more new flowers. I thought they bloomed all
year!" -They do. They just need a little deadheading and about 2
weeks of new growth. Remember the flowers are born on new growth.
All the spring new growth had all those wonderful flowers. But at
this stage, we need to get rid of those flowers and encourage new
growth for more new flowers. Get rid of the old flowers, give it a
couple weeks, and watch for the next flurry of flowers. By the way,
if you didn't get rid of the old flowers, they will still send out
some new growth for a few new flowers, but not like what will happen
after you deadhead them. New growth, new flowers on butterfly bushes.
"Should peonies be
deadheaded? I've never done it before." -Yes, they should. Again,
it makes for a cleaner appearance, removes dead plant material which
can harbor diseases and insects, and stops the plant from putting its
energy into trying to make seeds, and puts the energy into making the
peony plants nicer and stronger for next year.
“My grapes have
suddenly started turning black and shriveling. And the leaves are
getting spotty. What can I do to save my grapes?” -This is a very
common grape problem called ‘Black Rot’. Not only does it affect the
fruit, it also affects the leaves and the stems. The infections begin
at bloom time and can occur until the fruit is naturally resistant,
and is spread by wind and rain. Nothing you can do now, besides
eliminate all the infected fruit, leaves, and stems. Make sure the
vines are cleaned from all debris at the end of the season. Make sure
your grapes have full sun, and are in an airy location, with good weed
control underneath. And a good fungicidal spray program is needed,
beginning with a dormant spray, and then weekly spraying of a labeled
fungicide like Mancozeb from bud break to semi maturity of the fruit.
This is a must to control Black Rot on grapes.
"I need help with
our pond. Who do you recommend we call?" -Call The Pond Doctors, for
ponds of ALL sizes. 812-623-2253. (or visit
www.theponddoctors.com)
[Man who stand on
toilet is high on pot.]
This week's Success Tip for your garden
- Now that we’re in the summer months, watering the lawn becomes very
a very important part of helping to keep it looking good. But it’s
how you water the lawn that becomes the most important part of the
process. First, the type of sprinkler you use really depends on
personal preference and size of the yard. And there are many styles
to choose from. Here are the 3 most popular:
–
Stationary sprinklers spray water through a pattern of holes in the
sprinkler, and the size, shape, pattern and water pressure determine
the area covered. These are usually best for smaller lawns, with
their variety of spray patterns, and are quick to water each area.
–
Oscillating sprinklers spray multiple streams of water from a curved
tube that ‘oscillates’ back and forth in a rectangular pattern. These
are usually dependent on good water pressure, can cover fairly large
areas, and can be adjusted to full sweeps, left, right, or center.
–
Pulsating or Impulse sprinklers are probably considered the most
efficient and versatile. They can operate on low pressure, and
discharge more water in a given time and usually cover a greater area
than other sprinklers. And with the spray close to the ground, it is
more wind resistant.
Second, how
often you use your sprinklers is very important. In most cases, lawns
would like 1 inch of rainfall every 7-10 days. And if Mother Nature
doesn’t provide it, then you need to supplement. And when you do, do
it all at one time, not a little every 2-3 days. Water less
frequently, but deep and thoroughly. This will encourage deeper root
systems for your lawn, making them less susceptible to drought
situations. To check how much rainfall your lawn has gotten each
week, simply check your rain gauge. And if you don’t have one, get
one! By the way, the best time to water your lawn is between 5 and 9
in the morning.
If you're looking
for the best way to deep water your larger trees and shrubs, don't
forget using a Ross Root Feeder. Originally designed as a fertilizing
tool (injecting water soluble fertilizers into the soil), this is a
wonderful tool for watering (just don't use the fertilizers!). And
don't think your larger trees and shrubs don't need watering during
periods of drought. Just because they're more matured and
mature-rooted doesn't mean anything. They still need the water to
survive. And the Ross Root feeder is one of the best ways to do it.
[Transvestite - guy
who likes to eat, drink, and be Mary.]
*From the Garden to the Kitchen / Hey Rita, what's cooking?
- Yardboy, my fennel, both the Florence (that’s the kind with the big
white bulb) and my bronze (which has a long tap root similar to a
carrot) are growing well enough to harvest some leaves from them. I’m
sharing an unusual, yet really delicious, recipe for pork tenderloin
using these herbs. And did you know that the Shakers chewed fennel
seeds during long religious ceremonies? Fennel seeds are not only
great for your digestion, they help curb the appetite and keep you
“up”. Thus the reason the adults munched on them! What about the
little ones, though? Yardboy, the Shakers had them chew dill seeds,
which, because they contain calcium, helped calm fidgety children
down. Fennel is also good with any kind of seafood.
ARISTA -
You'll need: 2 pounds pork tenderloin, or 2 one pound tenderloins, 2-3
teaspoons minced garlic, 1-1/2 teaspoons ground fennel seeds, or about
1/2 cup fresh fennel leaves, minced, Olive oil, Several parsley
sprigs, minced (opt), Sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste.
Trim tenderloins and set aside. Preheat oven to 425. Mix garlic and
fennel together. Add enough olive oil to make a paste. Stir in
parsley. Rub this paste all over tenderloins, and if you have any
left, make tiny slits in tenderloin and insert rest of paste in
there. Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Roast for 20
minutes or until internal temperature reads 160. Don’t overcook.
RITA’S HERBES
DE PROVENCE (Good with lamb, grains, tomatoes, pork, beef and in
seafood recipes) Blend together and store in cool, dry place away
from light: 1/4 cup dried thyme leaves, not powdered, 2 tablespoons
dried marjoram or 1 tablespoon oregano, 1 tablespoon dried rosemary,
minced, 1 tablespoon dried savory leaves, not powdered savory, 2
teaspoons dried lavender flowers, 1 teaspoon fennel seeds, 1 dried bay
leaf, crumbled.
-Rita Nader
Heikenfeld, CCP / Macy’s Regional Culinary Professional / Herbalist /
Author / Local TV and Radio Cooking Expert / Adjunct Professor U.C.
Clermont College / Community Press Papers / [life@communitypress.com attn:
Rita or
www.abouteating.com]
[My mind works
like lightning. One brilliant flash and its gone.]
*Yardboy's
plant to ponder
- This week, the plant to ponder is a perennial plant, that's probably
not very well known in the perennial garden. It's "Cimicifuga" or
commonly known as "Bugbane". Now this is a shade to partial shade
lover, likes loamy evenly moist soils, and will need an extra drink or
two during drought periods. Bugbane has ferny like foliage, with late
summer creamy white flowers on graceful stalks (which attract
butterflies and can be cut), and is considered a bold perennial for
the shadier garden, reaching about 3-5 feet tall. One in particular
that I like is 'Brunette', with purplish-bronze ferny foliage, that
actually turns yellow in the fall. Hardy to zone 4, but again,
prefers even moisture and will need an extra drink during any drought
spells.
[A closed mouth
gathers no foot.]
A
little bit of this and a little bit of that
- State Officials Remind Citizens To Keep Ash Tree Storm Debris In
Emerald Ash Borer Quarantined Areas! Citizens who are cleaning up
outdoor storm damage are asked to abide by the EAB quarantines in
northwest and central
Ohio,
while disposing of ash tree damage. These quarantines have been aimed
at stopping the spread of EAB (ash tree killing insect), by making it
illegal to move ash wood out of 14
Ohio counties.
The fine for doing this is $4,000. Quarantines also make it illegal
to move ash wood from Michigan and seven infested counties in Indiana
into Ohio. For more information visit
www.emeraldashborer.info,
www.ohioagriculture.gov/eab, or call 1-888-OHIO-EAB. (The Emerald
Ash Borer is a non native insect from Asia, capable of wiping out all
ash species in North America, and can be spread through firewood and
ash tree materials. It was first discovered in
Michigan.)
Researchers at
Cornell University are evaluating 70 ornamental landscape plants for
their 'weed-suppressing' qualities and their suitability for roadside
plantings. These plants, once established, would help reduce
herbicide applications. Plants with good weed-suppressive
characteristics include Liriope s. 'Majestic', Phlox s. 'Emerald
Blue', Rudbeckia f. 'Goldsturm', Carex glauca, Nepeta x f. 'Walker's
Low', and Solidago s. 'Golden Fleece'.
The World
Federation of Rose Societies voted 'Eden Climber' as the World's
Favorite Rose (introduced in 1987 by Conard Pyle Co.). Eden Climber
features a blend of pastel pinks, creams, and yellows, coupled with
deep green foliage. It's a bushy vigorous climber, petal count is
40-50, and has a slight fragrance.
[If it's true
we're here to help others, then what exactly are the others here for?]
Classes, Seminars, and upcoming Special Events
- Watch Gary Sullivan's "HomewoRx" to see the $10,000 Natorp Landscape
Makeover. On Sunday, July 9, the project gets started. On Sunday,
July 16, we follow up with a look at the project 'halfway through',
and on August 6, you'll see the final results! That's "HomewoRx",
Sundays
11:30am, on Local 12. For more info on the project, visit
www.wkrc.com, or www.natorp.com.
Meyer
Aquascapes is sponsoring a Water Garden Tour in Cincinnati /Northern
Kentucky on July 22 and 23. Tickets are $10. There will be 33 ponds,
some with waterfalls and streams, and all very nicely landscaped.
Tickets are available through Boone County Extension, by calling (859)
586-6101, or by calling (513) 941-8500. This is a great tour for pond
enthusiasts, pond owner wanna-be's, gardeners, or just to enjoy other
folks ponds and gardens!
July 8. Edible
Flowers
at the Civic
Garden Center, 10 am - Noon. Instructor Vickie Ciotti, Civic Garden
Center Executive Director will take your taste buds on an adventure.
Learn about edible flowers, and how to use them in decorating and
enhancing dishes. $10/person, reservation is appreciated
513/221-0981, Ext. 18.
July 12. Lunch and
Learn Series: Daylilies
at the Civic
Garden
Center, Noon - 1pm. Master Gardener and Daylily aficionado John Duke,
will share information about the different varieties, how to care for
them and then lead a walk of the grounds which contain an impressive
collection. Free, but a reservation is appreciated, 513/221-0981.
July 13. 25th
Anniversary Neighborhood Gardens Tour
beginning at the
Civic Garden Center, 5:30 pm – 8:30 pm. Board busses to visit the
newly renovated
Walnut
Hills
Garden,
help the Madisonville Garden celebrate its 20th Anniversary
and see some unique features of the East End Veterans Memorial Garden.
$10/person, reservations necessary by July 6 to 513/221-0981, Ext. 18.
July 19. Hydrangea
Family
at the Civic Garden Center, 6 – 8 pm. Instructor, Michele Williams,
Civic Garden Center Horticulturist will speak about how to distinguish
amongst the cultivated varieties, explore the biology of hydrangeas,
and take some time to enjoy the hydrangeas on the CGC grounds. Bring a
good hand lens to help with identifications. $10/person.
Reservations appreciated, 513/221-0981, Ext. 18.
Kinkead Ridge
Estate Winery will be doing another vineyard tour this year (weather
permitting) at Kinkead Ridge Vineyard,
4288 Kinkead Road,
Ripley Ohio, on September 2 and 4. The winery (904
Hamburg
Street 937-392-6077) is open Saturdays from
11am-5pm
until Labor Day. (www.kinkeadridge.com) This is an award winning
winery!
Okay, that's
it for this week. Remember, no newsletter next week. I will be out
of the office all week. Now, do yourself a favor. Go out and have
the best 'next 2 weekends' of your life! See ya. RW, the Yardboy.
[Catch Natorp's
own grown yardboy Ron Wilson during the week: -55KRC The Talk Station
'In the Garden with Ron Wilson' every Saturday from 6-9am - Satellite
Radio / XM TalkRadio 165 every Saturday from 6-9am -610 WTVN
(Columbus) every Saturday from 10-12pm -Friday mornings at 8:06am on
55KRC's 'The Morning Show' with Jerry Thomas and Craig Kopp -Thursday
and Saturday mornings on Local 12 News (WKRC) Homeworx Team -Garden
expert for 'HomewoRx' with Gary Sullivan on Local 12, Sunday at
11:30am. Be sure to listen to 55KRC The Talk Station for the
best in talk radio! (Home of programming director Tony 'Big
Dog' Bender, and executive producer Joe 'the original Joe Pro, who
without Joe, the show just wouldn't go' Strecker.)
["What disease did
cured ham actually have?" -point to ponder from the Big Dog.] |